Vegan Meringue Cookies

For people who avoid eggs due to allergies or dietary reasons, eating meringue cookies is completely out of the question. A classic meringue’s light, pillowy texture is made possible because of the unique properties of egg whites; when egg whites are whipped at a high speed with sugar, their proteins change shape (a process called protein denaturation) and trap air, forming a stable foam. However, an eggless “meringue” can be made using aquafaba, the cooking liquid of beans and legumes like chickpeas.

Aquafaba contains proteins (albumin and globulins, the type of water-soluble proteins seen in egg whites) and saponins (molecules that behave like soap and produce foams), and, when whipped with sugar, they produce a surprisingly convincing meringue substitute. With that in mind, I wanted to try to figure out the optimal cooking conditions to produce delicious vegan meringue cookies that are shiny, white, and pillowy, so I set up a bunch of different experiments, which you can read about by clicking on the link below.

In the end, I found that it's best to use aquafaba from cans of chickpeas that have been cooked with kombu because it contains carrageenan, a carbohydrate that can form gels and is often used as an emulsifier in products like evaporated milk. I also found the addition of cream of tartar, an acid, to the meringue mixture both produces a more stable foam and cookies that have very little browning, as the acid inhibits caramelization and Maillard reactions. Finally, I found that aquafaba meringue needs a strong aromatic flavoring component, as adding even a large amount of vanilla extract did little to mask the beany smell. Ingredients with more robust aromas, however, like ground green cardamom or coffee, do a fantastic job of covering up the bean aroma. 

Just like an egg-based meringue, the aquafaba meringue needs to be baked at a low temperature of 200°F/95°C for at least 2 hours. The lower temperature reduces the risk of browning and helps the meringue slowly dehydrate and hold its structure. Resist the urge to open the oven door for at least 1 hour, as the meringue might still be delicate and can deflate (my current oven is a bit of a nightmare and the door slams back pretty hard).

Aquafaba meringue cookies are one of the best ways to use what might otherwise end up as food waste. All it takes is sugar, canned chickpea liquid (if you can find the ones that are cooked with kombu, even better), cream of tartar, and an aromatic ingredient for a vegan treat that’s just as shiny, white, and pillowy as meringues made with egg whites.