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I Tested 19 Flatware Sets by Cutting Up Lots of Chicken and Slurping Soup

My top pick from Made In is elegant, versatile, and pleasant to use.

By
Madeline Muzzi
Madeline Muzzi Headshot
Writer
Madeline Muzzi is a food writer with over 10 years of experience covering cooking, restaurants and wine. She is an accomplished cook and certified sommelier. 
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Updated November 19, 2024
An assortment of silverware on a wooden surface

Serious Eats / Madeline Muzzi

Straight to the Point

The best overall flatware set is from Made In—this cutlery is elegant, versatile, and has a pleasant heft. We also liked the Lenox Portola 65-Piece Flatware Set. It’s a budget-friendly alternative that includes a few bonus pieces of serveware.

My childhood home had two sets of flatware: one sensible stainless steel collection for family dinners and one reserved for special occasions and holidays. The latter was a wedding gift to my parents—it was frilly, embellished, and plated in 18k gold. They both hated it. On top of the silly golden-yellow shine, it required excessive care. The delicate metal required hand-washing and polishing after each use. 

Childhood baggage aside, the idea of busting out the fine silverware for company appeals to me—in theory. In practice, I simply don’t have the space for multiple sets in my Brooklyn kitchen. This makes finding the right daily flatware even more important. My ideal flatware is versatile and pleasantly heavy. It should be casual enough for when I’m eating takeout on the couch but still have the visual oomph for a dinner party. 

Utensils get near daily use, so it’s worth finding a set you love. The differences between individual pieces may seem subtle at first—after all, even the most basic fork can spear a piece of chicken—but slight differences and heft and size have a big impact on feel. I weighed, measured, sliced, slurped, and forked my way through 19 flatware sets to determine which were the best.

The Winners, at a Glance

The Made In flatware set is simple and elegant. Each piece is well-balanced and comfortably sized. This set soared through each test—the knife sliced chicken easily and the fork tines were sharp enough to spear a cucumber but didn't poke my mouth.

The Lenox Portola flatware set offers great value. For $113, you’ll get 65 pieces, which includes a complete serving set with a cute sugar spoon. Unlike other affordable sets, each Lenox utensil was pleasantly heavy in the hand. This set performed well during testing since it was balanced and effective, and the pieces are a comfortable size and weight.

I loved the sleek design and pleasant heft of the Robert Welch Caesna Mirror flatware. The smooth lines bring a modern flare to table settings. The serrated table knife sliced smoothly and the large spoons will satisfy enthusiastic soup eaters.

The Best Versatile Flatware Set

Robert Welch Westbury Mirror Flatware Set

Robert Welch Westbury Mirror Flatware Set
PHOTO: Williams Sonoma

This is a heavy, balanced flatware set with a timeless design. The sleek form will mesh well with any kitchen aesthetic. These high-quality pieces can slice, spear, scoop, and shovel like a dream. Their smooth edges have a pleasing mouthfeel and don't poke or prod while eating.

The Tests

A person using a fork from the Robert Welch Caesna Mirror 5-Piece Flatware Place Setting
I used each flatware set to eat a variety of foods, including farro salad with cucumbers and tomatoes.

Serious Eats / Madeline Muzzi

  • Weight Test: I weighed each individual piece of flatware and evaluated the designs for heft and balance. 
  • Chicken Breast Test: To test the knives, I used each set to slice a roasted chicken breast, taking note of any shredding or difficulty. 
  • Soup Test: I used each set’s spoons to eat two ounces of tomato soup, evaluating the capacity and balance of the spoon.
  • Farro Salad Test: I evaluated the forks by using each set to consume a three-ounce portion of farro salad, switching between the salad and dinner forks. I tested each utensil for spearing and scooping ability. 
  • Cleanup Test: After testing, I hand-washed each piece of flatware. I also ran each set through the dishwasher, checking for wear or discoloration. 

What We Learned

Look for Weight and Balance

a person holding a forkful of grain salad up and above a plate

Serious Eats / Madeline Muzzi

Weight is an indicator of quality—heavier flatware tends to feel sturdier and more luxurious. It might sound subtle, but the difference is real. A study conducted by Oxford University concluded that heavier flatware makes eating more enjoyable—diners eating with high-end silverware consistently rated their meals as better. During testing, I found that weight and balance worked hand-in-hand to create the most pleasant eating experience.

Weight of the Flatware Sets
SetDinner Fork WeightSpoon WeightKnife Weight
Made In54 grams49 grams109 grams
Lenox42.2 grams52 grams136 grams
Robert Welch Caesna62 grams76 grams110 grams
Robert Welch Westbury78 grams87 grams127 grams
Our Table63 grams74 grams 107 grams
Oneida Voss52 grams136 grams42.2 grams
CB270 grams50.6 grams100 grams
Laguiole49 grams61 grams45 grams
Zwilling51 grams57 grams98 grams
LIANYU46 grams56 grams80 grams
Knork4 grams88 grams88 grams
Oneida Mooncrest 72 grams64 grams114 grams
Pfaltzgraff36 grams35 grams74 grams 
Reed & Barton57. grams60 grams 95 grams
Mikasa York 66 grams63 grams  107 grams
HENCKELS ALCEA45 grams50 grams83 grams
Dansk Bistro Cafe63 grams56 grams83 grams
Ginkgo Lyon48 grams56 grams50 grams
Williams Sonoma58 gramsNA (no dinner spoon)102 grams

Even though it was slightly lighter, the Oneida Voss 45-Piece Flatware Set’s 60-gram salad fork felt bulky and unwieldy compared to Robert Welch Westbury’s 64.6-gram version. Still, I overall preferred the heavier sets. The average weight of dinner forks was 56.8 grams. Models that fell significantly below this, including the 36.4-gram and 44.7-gram offerings from Pflatzgraff and HENCKELS, felt thin and flimsy. 

Smooth Finishes Were Pleasant

a spoon with a fork on a plate with farro salad
Forks should be smooth in the mouth; I disliked ones that had rough edges that caught on my cheek when eating.

Serious Eats / Madeline Muzzi

The ideal flatware should feel pleasant both in the hand and in the mouth, and I preferred forks and spoons with a smooth finish. Some sets, like the Williams Sonoma Pantry 36-Piece Flatware Set with Caddy and the Pflatzgraff, had rough edges as though they had been stamped out of a metal sheet. This created an unpleasant sensation—the fork tines caught slightly in my mouth. Other sets, like the Mikasa York 20-Piece Flatware Set and 1800 Reed & Barton Flatware Place Setting had a smooth texture but felt thin and tinny. The Made In Flatware, Dansk Bistro Cafe Flatware Sets, and Robert Welch Caesna Mirror 5-Piece Flatware Place Setting had a pleasant balance of body and presence. 

Good Design Was Essential 

a person using a fork and knife to slice through chicken breast on a plate
Stainless steel sets were durable and easy to clean—a must when they're you're everyday eating utensils.

Serious Eats / Madeline Muzzi

Certain design elements are practical. All the sets I tested were 18/10 stainless steel and dishwasher-safe—a must for everyday flatware. Stainless steel is durable and low maintenance. It will last for years and doesn’t require polishing.  Beyond those basic elements, setting your kitchen table is a visual endeavor. The flatware I tested ranged from simple and classic to ornamented and elaborate. Design is a personal choice—the best flatware set is the one you’ll be excited to use. My winners are all beautiful and versatile, but a few models deserve a special design callout: The 1800 Reed & Barton is vintage-inspired and ornate, while cottagecore fans might enjoy the charming and rustic Ginkgo Lyon Stainless-Steel Flatware. For modern design lovers, check out the sleek Dansk Bistro Cafe Flatware set.

The Criteria: What to Look for in a Flatware Set

the made in flatware set next to a plate with farro salad and chicken

Serious Eats / Madeline Muzzi

The best flatware sets are balanced, with a pleasant heft and smooth edges. Complete sets should include a minimum of five pieces—a dinner fork, salad fork, dinner knife, large spoon, and a soup or dessert spoon. Anything outside of this (like a butter knife or matching salad serving set) earns bonus points. Look for reasonably sized utensils that can fit comfortably in your mouth. For ease and durability, choose a dishwasher-safe set with stainless steel construction. Utensils should last a lifetime and will get near-daily use, so don’t be afraid to invest in a set that you love and will stand the test of time. 

Our Favorite Flatware Sets


What we liked: The Made In flatware set is simple and elegant. Each piece is pleasantly heavy and well-balanced. They’re also well sized—the utensils accommodate a generous amount of food and fit comfortably in the mouth. Their smooth finish has a pleasant mouthfeel. The knife is sharp enough to slice through chicken but won't accidentally nick you if you reach for it in the drawer.

What we didn’t like: This is an expensive set. At $10 per piece, it’s the priciest winner. Made In doesn’t manufacture any serveware, like a slotted spoon or large fork, so if you want your serving pieces to match your flatware, this isn’t the set for you. 

Key Specs

  • Materials: Stainless steel
  • Cost per piece: $10
  • What’s included: 4 dinner forks, 4 salad forks, 4 dinner spoons, 4 dessert spoons, 4 dinner knives
  • Care instructions: Dishwasher-safe
Various pieces from the Made In Flatware set

Serious Eats / Madeline Muzzi

What we liked: This set includes everything you need to host a dinner party. In addition to 12 complete place settings, it comes with two serving spoons, a serving fork, a butter knife, and a sugar spoon. This is a great option for anyone who is stocking their first kitchen. The Lenox Portola flatware delivers impressive quality for the price, too—the pieces are pleasantly balanced and feel durable.

What we didn’t like: During testing, I found that this set has slightly rougher edges than its pricier competitors, and the fork tines catch slightly in the mouth. The pieces feel reasonably high-quality, but they’re significantly lighter than the other winning choices and four out of five of the standard pieces fell below the average category weight. 

Key Specs

  • Materials: Stainless steel
  • Cost per piece: $1.74
  • What’s included: Includes (12) 5-piece place settings and 5-piece serving set with serving spoon, pierced serving spoon, sugar spoon, butter knife, and serving fork.
  • Care instructions: Dishwasher-safe
Various pieces of cutlery from the Lenox Portola 65-Piece Flatware Set

Serious Eats / Madeline Muzzi

What we liked: This is a sleek, well-made set with heavy pieces and smooth edges. The spoons have a modern silhouette with a gentle, sloping transition between the basin and the handle—just enough to add a subtle design flair to your table. The forks were well sized and the teaspoon was large enough to hold satisfying bites of soup. Robert Welch also manufactures Caesna steak knives and serving sets, which can be purchased separately to complete your tablescape. 

What we didn’t like: The dinner spoon is huge and slightly off balance—the handle is disproportionately heavy and might tip out of a bowl if shaken.   

Key Specs

  • Materials: Stainless steel
  • Cost per piece: $9
  • What’s included: Dinner fork, salad fork, dinner knife, dinner spoon, and teaspoon
  • Care instructions: Dishwasher-safe
Various pieces from the Robert Welch Caesna Mirror 5-Piece Flatware Place Setting

Serious Eats / Madeline Muzzi

The Best Versatile Flatware Set

Robert Welch Westbury Mirror Flatware Set

Robert Welch Westbury Mirror Flatware Set
PHOTO: Williams Sonoma

What we liked: The Robert Welch Westbury flatware is smooth and heavy. The pleasant heft makes the pieces feel high-quality—each utensil weighed more than the average category weight. This set features a simple design—the utensils have clean, elegant lines and a slightly tapered handle that feel timeless and would mesh well with any interior aesthetic. The serrated knife cuts chicken easily and both forks have sharp tips and smooth sides. Robert Welch also manufactures Westbury serving utensils, which can be purchased separately to complete your tablescape. 

What we didn’t like: The Robert Welch Westbury dinner spoon is even larger than the Caesna model—it may be difficult for children or people with small mouths. 

Key Specs

  • Materials: Stainless steel
  • Cost per piece: $9
  • What’s included: Dinner fork, salad fork, dinner knife, dinner spoon, and a teaspoon
  • Care instructions: Dishwasher-safe
Various pieces from the Robert Welch Westbury Flatware Set

Serious Eats / Madeline Muzzi

The Competition

FAQs

Which silverware sets don’t rust?

Stainless steel is our top choice because it’s rust-resistant. You can run stainless steel utensils through the dishwasher without worrying about discoloration and they will never require polishing. 

What does 18/10 stainless steel mean? 

The numbers refer to the material composition—18/10 steel is 18% chromium and 10% nickel, making it a high-grade metal. 

What's the difference between flatware and silverware?

Flatware and silverware are often used interchangeably. These terms both refer to eating utensils including forks, knives, spoons, and serveware. Technically speaking, silverware describes utensils made from silver or plated in silver while the term flatware can be applied to utensils made from a range of materials. 

How many flatware settings should you have?

The ideal number of place settings depends on the size of your household and how often you entertain. Most people will find it helpful to have at least four place settings (20 pieces), but if you plan on hosting dinner parties or have more people to feed, a 65-piece set (12 settings) should do it.

What's the best way to clean flatware?

Stainless steel flatware is dishwasher-safe. If your flatware develops any discoloration or has bits of stubborn, stuck-on food, soaking the utensils in a solution of baking soda and water will help restore their shine. 

What's the best flatware set for 12?

To serve 12 people, you'll need a 65-piece set of flatware. Our favorite 65-piece set from Lenox fits the bill. It's well-balanced with a comfortable heft in-hand.

Do you need to polish silverware?

Flatware made from real silver should be polished to be kept in good condition. But stainless steel flatware doesn't need to be polished—you can even put most sets in the dishwasher.

Why We’re the Experts

  • Madeline Muzzi has over 10 years of experience as a food writer and recipe tester. 
  • Madeline collects vintage silver servingware. 
  • Madeline has been known to eat three soups in one meal and values spoon performance.
  • She first tested flatware sets for Serious Eats in 2023 and recently re-tested our winners along with new options. To do so, she weighed each piece of silverware, cleaned them, and used them to eat soup, slice chicken, and fork farro salad.

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