To Find the 3 Best Food Mills, We Pureed 30 Pounds of Potatoes and Tomatoes

It’s hard to imagine the days before we had the convenience of electronic kitchen appliances. Mixers, food processors, and blenders all replaced tedious work done by hand. (Imagine making massive quantities of whipped cream manually! My wrist hurts just thinking about it.) But the food mill is one manual contraption that has stood the test of time.

This simple handheld device is used to make smooth purees and works by gently pressing ingredients through a sieve, resulting in a silky, but still textured, result. We tested nine food mills, pureeing 20 pounds of potatoes and making batch after batch of fresh tomato sauce to find the best ones.

The Tests

• Creamy Mashed Potatoes Test: We made a batch of pommes puree, the French cousin of mashed potatoes, in each mill. We timed how long it took and noted ease of use, then tasted the final product to see if it was lumpy or if the processing created a gummy texture.
• Tomato Passata Test (Winners-Only): We used our favorite mills to make batches of tomato passata. This cooked tomato puree is a staple of Italian cooking and is free from skins and seeds. We evaluated how well the mill processed the mixture, separating the flesh from the rest, and how quickly it did so.

What We Learned

Food Mill Vs. Food Processor

As we mentioned, a food mill is basically a sieve with a metal piece that helps push ingredients through the holes, resulting in a smooth, but still textured, puree. To engage it, you spin the handle, which spins the metal blades, catching the food and pressing it through the holes. Since the holes are still quite small, skin and seeds are left behind (unless you're pureeing, say, a raspberry coulis, in which case seeds will likely fall through). The whole process is slow and measured, quite different than the frenetic, raw power of a food processor. The best example of their differences is when making mashed potatoes: A food mill slowly sieves the spud, resulting in a creamy, thick puree. A food processor, on the other hand, is so fast and powerful that it literally rips apart the potatoes' starch molecules, which results in a slimy, gloopy result. Both devices have their uses—a food processor is excellent at kneading pizza dough, blending hummus, and even chopping ingredients. A food mill can process stewed apples into applesauce, turn tomatoes into passata, or even sieve egg yolks for ultra-creamy deviled eggs.

Fluted Sides Funneled Ingredients

Some of the mills we tested had straight sides, while others were fluted, like the OXO. Not only do fluted sides allow you to start with more food from the beginning (eliminating needing to stop and refill), but the slope also encourages food to move toward the perforated base. Straight-sided mills require you to use a spatula to encourage things downward.

Evenly Spaced, Raised Holes Made for Quicker Work

Hole size directly impacts the texture of the final product, with smaller holes producing finer purees and larger ones allowing for a coarser texture. Additionally, the spacing between holes plays a crucial role in the efficiency of the milling process: Closer spacing leads to a more uniform puree, while wider spacing can process larger quantities of food faster. Regardless of the size or shape of the holes, we found that food mills with raised holes, like on the Williams Sonoma, processed food much faster, likely because the raised design helps to prevent clogging and ensures a smoother, more consistent flow through the sieve.

The Best Food Mills Were Easy to Assemble

If you’ve never used a food mill, you might not be aware of some of the finer points of setup. If you have, then you know that a model that’s easy to put together is crucial. For mills with changeable sieve plates, you first have to fit the sieve into the mill, which can be quite a task. Then, you have to take the crank lever and fit the post into the hole in the center of the sieve plate. Up the crank arm lies a spring topped by a crossbar. The crossbar has to be pushed down against the spring, swiveled slightly, and fit under two hooks that hold the crossbar in place. Some food mills, like the OXO, have a lock mechanism to ensure correct placement. Overcoming a stiff spring can make set up a challenge, but too little and the blade won’t push food into the mill well. 

Handles and Stability Were Important, Too

In addition to easy assembly, other things make a huge difference when it comes to the usability of a food mill, like its handles. Not only should they be comfortable to grab, but they should offer some leverage. Stay away from wire handles, which give little in the way of comfort. 

Stability is another factor. Our winner, from OXO, has flat feet that rest on top of a bowl or pot and give you a greater range of options during use. Some mills use hooks to hang on the side of a pot, but, in general, this can be limiting. For example, if your food mill has hooks, an 8-inch bowl, and a 5-inch handle, you’re going to need to find a pot that’s pretty much exactly nine inches across to use with it.

Some of the mills we tested had hooks that were made of metal and others had ones coated with silicone or plastic. If we were going to go with hooks, we preferred the silicone-coated ones, which were better at gripping and slid around less. 

The Criteria: What to Look for in a Food Mill

Consider the size and capacity of the food mill. You'll want one that's big enough to handle the amount of food you plan to process but not so large that it's difficult to store. Next, look at the materials: durable stainless steel is a great choice because it's easy to clean and won't rust. Some food mills come with interchangeable discs for different textures, from fine to coarse, which is handy for various recipes. That said, you want a mill that can quickly and easily puree; we liked mills with small raised holes, which produced the smoothest results. A comfortable handle and a stable base are a must, or else milling potatoes will feel like you're wrangling a greased watermelon, with the mill slipping and sliding around. Ease of cleaning is also important; models that are dishwasher-safe or easy to disassemble will save you time and effort.

Food Mills We Love

The Best Food Mill

OXO Good Grips Food Mill

$56 $50 at Amazon $56 at Williams Sonoma $12 at Walmart

What we liked: This has been a Serious Eats staff favorite for a while, and during our testing, we found out why. Unlike all the other food mills we tested, the OXO has silicone-covered feet that splay out flat and level, which makes it versatile in terms of what bowls or pots you can set it over. You can even set it on a flat surface and use it that way, while many of the others can’t rest flat on their bottom. The collapsible feet make it easy to store, as well.

The OXO created silky potato puree without gumminess and a smooth tomato passata that was neither too chunky nor too watery. It comes with your choice of three sieve discs so you can select the right one for the ingredient you want to process.

What we didn’t like: It did take a smidge longer to process the potatoes in this mill. However, when it came to things like the tomato passata, the texture of the final product was far superior (read: luscious and smooth). 

Key Specs

• Material: Stainless steel
• Stated capacity: 2.3 quarts
• Discs included: 3
• Weight: 2 pounds, 5 ounces
• Handle length: 5 inches
• Opening diameter: 8 inches
• Care instructions: Dishwasher-safe

The Best Budget-Friendly Food Mill

Mirro 3.5-Quart Stainless Steel Food Mill

$60 $45 at Amazon $42 at Walmart $50 at Farmandfleet.com

What we liked: It’s hard not to like a food mill that comes at such a great price, but it has more going for it than saving you a few bucks. Unlike many others, this mill has a fixed sieve, meaning it only has one option for the size and shape of the holes at the bottom. Luckily, that one size is all you need for the majority of recipes. Another bonus of the fixed sieve is that you don’t have to fuss and fiddle with a stiff spring or wonky crossbar. 

Like the Williams Sonoma, the Mirro also has a small metal stick that turns around the bottom of the sieve to scrape off processed food and prevent clogs, which was a handy feature that helped food pass through faster.

What we didn't like: The other side of the coin with a fixed sieve is that you have no options when it comes to adjusting the amount of puree or seeds you want to pass through; what comes standard is just what you get. The straight sides meant we had to help push the food down periodically as well.

Key Specs

• Material: Stainless steel
• Stated capacity: 2 or 3.5 quarts
• Discs included: 1, fixed
• Weight: 1 pound, 5 ounces
• Handle length: 6 inches
• Opening diameter: 7.25 inches
• Care instructions: Hand-wash

The Best Splurge Food Mill

Williams Sonoma Prep Tools Food Mill

$100 at Williams Sonoma

What we liked: The silicone-coated handles were very comfortable to hold (even though they were shorter than others), which offered more leverage when working the mill. Plus, the knob that spins the crank is oval instead of round, which was easier to get a firm grip on. The mill pureed food quickly and easily, and it was a breeze to set up.

It comes with a special clip that attaches to the base and rotates with the blade to scoop off processed food into your bowl of pot, preventing clogs and making things run smoothly. Some of the other higher-end food mills performed similarly well, but this was the most affordable of that group.

What we didn't like: This mill is definitely on the pricier side. 

Key Specs

• Material: Stainless steel, silicone-coated handles
• Stated capacity: NA
• Discs included: 3
• Weight: 2 pounds, 10 ounces
• Handle length: 4.5 inches
• Opening diameter: 8.25 inches
• Care instructions: Dishwasher-safe

The Competition

• Winco 2 Qt. Stainless Steel #2 Food Mill: This bowl and crossbar on the crank lever had sharp edges, and the blade didn’t turn as smoothly as others.
• Choice Prep Stainless Steel Rotary Food Mill: This model took much longer to puree potatoes than the others; it also had sharp edges that made it scary to clean.
• Küchenprofi Professional Stainless Steel Food Mill: Although this mill comes with four different sieves (which could be a huge bonus for some) the handle was a bit uncomfortable to hold and the design was awkward.
• Rösle Stainless Steel Food Mill with Handle: The design is undoubtedly good quality, but the price is sky-high and it didn’t equate to better performance.
• Cuisinart Food Mill: The plastic parts don’t offer much in terms of comfort and a few of the sieve attachments were rusted out of the box.
• Hungry Artisan Food Mill: This mill had almost the same design as the Cuisinart and many of the same issues. Though the stainless steel parts were superior, the overall design was just not that efficient.

FAQs

What’s a food mill good for?

A food mill is a great tool for any recipe or cooking project where you need to puree and strain simultaneously. With a food mill, you can effortlessly make silky-smooth tomato sauce free of seeds and skins, perfect for pasta dishes or pizza. It's also fantastic for creating lump-free mashed potatoes, velvety applesauce, and smooth purees, such as pumpkin or squash. A food mill can also assist in making homemade jams, jellies, and fruit preserves by removing unwanted seeds and fibers, ensuring a smooth consistency. Its ability to separate solids from liquids without incorporating air makes it better suited than blenders or food processors for certain tasks.

What’s the best way to clean a food mill?

Cleaning your food mill right away will make the process easier. Most food mills are dishwasher-safe, but check the manufacturer's instructions first. If washing by hand, disassemble the mill and wash each part with warm, soapy water. Use a brush to remove any food particles stuck in the sieve holes. Dry the parts thoroughly before reassembling them to prevent rust, especially if the mill is made of metal.

How is a food mill different from a ricer?

A food mill and a ricer both have metal sieves with holes—but they differ in how they process foods. A ricer uses a metal tamper to crush food through the holes in one swift motion, while a food mill has a handle and spinning metal piece that slowly pushes food through the sieve. Food mills are often used for purees and silky smooth mashed potatoes, while ricers are mainly used for crushing starchy foods, yielding a fluffier texture.  

How do you use a food mill for tomatoes? 

People often use food mills to make passata, a tomato puree that’s thin and fresh. In our recipe for passata, we have you quickly cook chopped fresh tomatoes to get rid of some water, then place them in the food mill and start turning. The food mill pushes the tomatoes through the metal sieve, capturing seeds and tomato skin. 

Why We’re the Experts

• Taylor Murray has been working in food and food media for over 10 years, including in award-winning restaurants.
• She has written extensively for Serious Eats, including pieces on paella pans, carving boards, and more.
• She tested 10 stainless steel food mills by using them to puree 20 pounds of potatoes and make batches of passata. Throughout testing, she evaluated each model's performance, usability, and design.