Chocolate Hazelnut Buns

If you love cinnamon rolls and chocolate, this is the baking project for you.

Updated October 25, 2024

Overhead shot of chocolate hazelnut rolls mascarpone drizzled with glaze. — Serious Eats / Vicky Wasik

Why It Works

Using all-purpose flour rather than bread flour keeps the dough tender and light.
Baking soda regulates the dough's pH, helping it brown in the oven.
Unflavored dental floss or butcher's twine cuts through the dough without squishing it flat.

If you've tried our overnight cinnamon rolls, the dough for these breakfast buns will be familiar. But the experience itself will be all new, thanks to a filling of homemade Nutella, made from dark chocolate and caramelized hazelnuts, and a whipped-mascarpone frosting.

It doesn't matter if I'm having friends over for brunch or staying with family through the holidays—my only wish is to keep things simple. I have absolutely no desire to get up early and bang around the kitchen trying to whip up a special breakfast.

What I want is to start a pot of coffee, turn on the oven, and then crash on the couch until the scent of yeasty dough pulls me back into the kitchen. I want to unveil a pan full of perfect pinwheels, I want to slather frosting on top, and I want everyone to get excited. I want to relax and have a good time.

a tray of chocolate hazelnut buns drizzled with frosting

But that doesn't mean I'm not willing to put in some work! I love the process of baking, at least when it's on my terms—tackled bit by bit over the course of a few days, and never requiring that I race the clock, with a houseful of hungry folks watching over my every move.

For me, making breakfast for a crowd (at my house or elsewhere) is about sharing a meal and hanging out. Which I can't do particularly well if I've had to wake up hours earlier than everyone else to pull off some last-minute breakfast caper, leaving me frazzled and with a trail of dirty dishes in my wake. I like my mornings calm.

Baking is a discipline that rewards those who are patient, methodical, and willing to do a bit of planning—and such is the case with these yeast-raised breakfast buns, stuffed with a chocolate-and-caramelized-hazelnut spread (a.k.a. homemade Nutella), then slathered with whipped mascarpone spiked with vanilla.

It's absolutely not something you can pull off on a moment's notice, but that's the point. It's something you make in advance of a breakfast gathering, so that you can actually enjoy yourself when the time comes.

This recipe is based off my classic cinnamon rolls, which start with a rich but eggless dough made with thick and tangy Greek yogurt. For a complete walk-through of that recipe, covering everything from ingredients to gluten development, and including photos of every step, check out our guide to the best no-fuss cinnamon rolls.

chocolate hazelnut buns fresh from the oven

That's the exact same dough I'm using here. I experimented with using roasted-hazelnut oil to replace the butter, but I found its character in the dough too mild to justify the expense. Ultimately, I enjoyed this recipe best when I kept the dough simple to better showcase the real star, that homemade Nutella.

My version contains more hazelnuts than any other ingredient, and the sugar involved is fully caramelized, taming the overall sweetness and adding complexity through those toasted notes. It's a rather lean recipe, with the hazelnuts and chocolate serving as the primary sources of fat, so their character comes through loud and clear.

It's worth noting that I haven't tested this recipe with commercial Nutella, a spread made primarily out of sugar and palm oil, with just enough hazelnuts and low-fat cocoa to suggest their flavor. It's a very different composition—different enough that I can't say with confidence that it would work as a 1:1 replacement here. It might, but I don't care to find out; my heart belongs to this hazelnut- and chocolate-centric version (which can be prepared weeks in advance).

The chocolate-hazelnut spread is twirled up with the prepared dough after its first rise, after which the dough is cut into pieces with a strip of butcher's twine or unflavored dental floss. Garroting the dough keeps the pinwheels nice and round; the soft dough will be squished out of shape if you use a knife.

interior of a chocolate hazelnut bun, showing dark layers of Nutella against the soft dough

The portions are then arranged in a parchment-lined brownie pan (specifically, a nine- by 13-inch anodized-aluminum baking pan) and covered in foil for a 12- to 48-hour cold rise in the fridge. They can also be frozen much longer, then thawed overnight to be baked the same way.

Those options give me plenty of time to knock out the dough days or even weeks ahead, and the cold dough travels well (say, when I'm heading to my parents' house for the holidays).

As with my cinnamon rolls, this recipe keeps the buns covered during most of their time in the oven, with the foil pulled off only at the end to facilitate browning and keep the dough from drying out.

At some point between making the dough and baking it off, you can knock out the whipped-mascarpone frosting as well, then refrigerate it in a disposable pastry bag or zip-top bag until needed.

Like the OG recipe, these buns are a fully wake-and-bake affair, keeping things simple so I can kick back and relax with the people I love most, and bask in the glow of a fancy breakfast that didn't require any morning hustle to pull off.

October 2019

Recipe Details

Chocolate Hazelnut Buns Recipe

Prep 45 mins

Cook 45 mins

Rising Time 13 hrs 30 mins

Total 15 hrs

Serves 12 servings

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Ingredients

For the Dough:

16 ounces all-purpose flour, such as Gold Medal (about 3 1/2 cups, spooned; 450g), plus more for rolling
3 1/2 ounces sugar (about 1/2 cup; 100g)
2 teaspoons instant yeast, such as SAF (not rapid-rise; see note)
2 teaspoons (8g) Diamond Crystal kosher salt; for table salt, use about half as much by volume or the same weight
1/4 teaspoon baking soda
4 ounces unsalted butter (8 tablespoons; 115g)
4 ounces milk (8 tablespoons; 115g), any percentage will do
8 ounces plain, unsweetened, strained Greek yogurt (about 1 cup; 225g), such as Fage (see note)

For the Filling:

12 ounces homemade Nutella (about 1 1/3 cups; 340g), creamy or crunchy (see note)
4 ounces skinned toasted hazelnuts, roughly chopped (a shy cup; 115g), or more to taste

For the Frosting:

4 ounces mascarpone (about 1/2 cup; 115g)
4 ounces heavy cream (about 1/2 cup; 115g)
1 3/4 ounces plain or toasted sugar (about 1/4 cup; 50g)
1/8 ounce vanilla extract (about 3/4 teaspoon; 4g), or more to taste
1/4 teaspoon (1g) Diamond Crystal kosher salt, or more to taste; for table salt, use about half as much by volume or the same weight

Directions

For the Dough: In the bowl of a stand mixer, combine flour, sugar, yeast, salt, and baking soda. Melt butter in a 2-quart saucier over low heat, then stir in milk and yogurt, warming to about 80°F (27°C). Add butter/milk/yogurt mixture to flour mixture and stir to form a very dry and shaggy dough. Using hook attachment, knead dough on low until silky-smooth and elastic, capable of being gently stretched into a thin but rough sheet without tearing, about 20 minutes.
First Rise: Cover bowl with plastic and set dough to rise until puffy, light, and doubled in bulk, about 1 1/2 hours at roughly 70°F (21°C). If dough feels dense, firm, or overly resilient (this is more likely in chilly months), let rest 15 more minutes before testing again.
Shaping: Turn dough onto lightly floured surface, dust with flour, and roll into 13-inch square. Spread homemade Nutella over dough in even layer, using offset spatula. Sprinkle hazelnuts on top and roll into a log, ending seam side down.
Slide an 8-inch strand of thread, unflavored dental floss, or butcher's twine under dough log until you reach the middle. Cross ends over the top and pull tight to divide log in two. Cut each half into 6 one-inch slices and arrange in parchment-lined 9- by 13- by 2-inch aluminum baking pan (or two 8-inch by 3-inch round cake pans).
Second Rise and Frosting: Cover rolls with foil and refrigerate overnight, or up to 48 hours. Meanwhile, prepare frosting by combining mascarpone, cream, sugar, vanilla, and salt in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with whisk attachment. Whip on medium speed until sugar is dissolved and frosting is fluffy, thick, and capable of holding medium-soft peaks. If necessary, season with additional salt and/or vanilla to taste. Transfer to a disposable pastry bag or other airtight container and refrigerate until needed, up to 48 hours.
To Bake and Serve: Adjust oven rack to middle position and preheat to 350°F (180°C). Meanwhile, let buns stand at room temperature until oven is hot. When oven is hot, bake, covered, until buns are puffed and firm but pale, about 30 minutes. (If using darker pans, check on the buns a little sooner.) Remove foil and continue baking until buns are lightly browned, about 15 minutes more. Snip a corner from bag of frosting and squeeze over each bun; alternatively, spoon frosting over buns. Serve immediately, as buns do not hold up well over time.

Special Equipment

Stand mixer, 2-quart saucier, flexible spatula, digital thermometer, offset spatula, unflavored dental floss or butcher’s twine, 9- by 13- by 2-inch anodized-aluminum baking pan or two 8-inch anodized-aluminum cake pans (preferably 3 inches deep)

Notes

Instant yeast doesn't require hydration prior to use and is suitable for cold fermentation, making it distinct from both active dry and rapid-rise yeast. My favorite brand is SAF red-label instant yeast, which is higher quality than anything found in supermarkets, and dramatically cheaper when bought in bulk.

Greek yogurt is traditionally thickened by straining, giving it a low-moisture/high-protein makeup. Look for brands that contain only milk and active cultures, and avoid those artificially thickened with gum, gelatin, or pectin, as these will ruin the texture of the dough.

This recipe was tested with our homemade Nutella, and will not necessarily behave the same way with commercial alternatives, which may require adaptation.

Make-Ahead and Storage

The prepared but unbaked buns can be refrigerated up to 48 hours in a foil-covered pan. If the pan is wrapped tightly in plastic, they can also be frozen for several months. To use, thaw overnight at room temperature and proceed with the recipe as directed when it's time to bake.

Nutrition Facts (per serving)
563	Calories
31g	Fat
63g	Carbs
10g	Protein

Nutrition Facts
Servings: 12
Amount per serving
Calories	563
% Daily Value*
Total Fat 31g	39%
Saturated Fat 18g	92%
Cholesterol 46mg	15%
Sodium 386mg	17%
Total Carbohydrate 63g	23%
Dietary Fiber 4g	13%
Total Sugars 30g
Protein 10g
Vitamin C 0mg	2%
Calcium 98mg	8%
Iron 3mg	19%
Potassium 298mg	6%
*The % Daily Value (DV) tells you how much a nutrient in a food serving contributes to a daily diet. 2,000 calories a day is used for general nutrition advice.

(Nutrition information is calculated using an ingredient database and should be considered an estimate.)