Essential Stovetop Macaroni and Cheese With Variations From 'Kitchen Confidence'

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the pasta and cook according to the package directions. Drain and set aside.

In a heavy saucepan or extra-large skillet set over medium-high heat, melt the butter. Whisk in the flour and cook, whisking constantly, until the paste cooks and bubbles a bit, about 2 minutes (make sure it doesn’t brown). Add 3 cups of the hot milk and cook, whisking constantly, until the sauce thickens, about 5 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Bring the sauce to a boil, reduce the heat to low, and cook, stirring, for 2 more minutes. Stir in the dry mustard and cayenne, then gradually add the cheddar and Muenster cheeses, stirring constantly until all of the cheese has melted into the sauce. Stir in the remaining 1 cup milk. Add the cooked pasta to the sauce and stir to coat. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Transfer to a serving dish and sprinkle the top with the Parmesan cheese and parsley. Serve immediately.

Buffalo Chicken Mac and Cheese: Stir 2 cups shredded rotisserie chicken mixed with a few dashes of hot sauce into the cheese sauce just before adding the pasta. Substitute crumbled blue cheese for the Parmesan cheese.

French Onion Soup Mac and Cheese: Substitute 1/2 pound shredded Gruyère cheese for the Muenster. In a heavy saucepan over medium-low heat, melt 1/4 cup butter, then add 1 thinly sliced yellow onion. Cook until caramelized, about 10 minutes. Fold into the mixture with the cooked pasta.

Lobster Mac and Cheese: Fold in 1 1/2 pounds cooked lobster meat to the finished macaroni and cheese, reserving a few pieces of lobster to garnish the top, if desired.