Why It Works
- Using exclusively ramps instead of pairing them with other alliums dials up the ramp flavor.
- Blanching the ramps before puréeing them creates a nearly neon-green puree that boasts intensely fresh ramp flavor, and stays bright even when stirred into your risotto.
The great thing about ramps is that unlike, say, garlic, they can give you all that awesome sweet onion-y flavor without leaving your breath smelling like garlic.
I mean, they do leave your breath smelling like ramps, but that's a much finer, rarer thing to smell like. People will literally* want you to breathe into their face after eating a bowl full of this extra-ramp-y ramp risotto. I've tested it out on both my dogs and have the data to prove it.
*Not literally. Or figuratively, even. They will not want you breathing in their face at all.
What's the secret to getting your risotto extra ramp-y? Just triple up the ramps. Normally I start my risotto with garlic and shallots cooked in butter and oil. In this case, I completely replace all aromatics with ramps. Ramp whites, to be precise, which stand up better to long cooking than ramp greens do.
Once the whites are cooked down, I toast my rice in the same butter before adding some wine and stock. In this case, I cooked my risotto the traditional way, adding stock in batches and stirring with a wooden spoon as I went. You could also cook it using my no-stir technique, which works marvelously, if I do say so myself.
So how do you incorporate that fresh, grassy ramp green flavor? Easy: as a green purée. By blanching the greens in boiling water for about 30 seconds, you destroy the enzymes that cause them to brown when they are subsequently pureed and exposed to oxygen. The result is a nearly neon-green puree that boasts intensely fresh ramp flavor, and stays bright even when stirred into your risotto.
All it takes from there are a few finishing touches. Some parmesan cheese to add richness and depth, some sautéed ramps to top it off, a bit of lemon zest and juice to brighten the flavor, and a dollop of herb-flavored ricotta cheese to enrich the whole dish. You could use some raw ramp greens in your ricotta or stirred into the risotto to finish, but there's a reason you don't see raw ramps too often: They don't taste very good. You're better off going with chives.
May 2013
Recipe Details
Extra-Rampy Ramp Risotto Recipe
Ingredients
1/2 cup fresh ricotta cheese, preferably homemade
2 tablespoons chopped fresh chives
1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley leaves
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
24 ramps, rinsed and trimmed
6 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 cup dry white wine
5 cups vegetable stock or water, divided
1 1/2 cups (about 13 1/2 ounces) risotto-style rice (see note)
2 ounces finely grated parmesan cheese (about 1 cup)
1 teaspoon grated zest and 1 teaspoon juice from 1 lemon
Directions
Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Meanwhile, combine ricotta with half of chives and half of parsley in a small bowl. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Refrigerate until ready to serve.
Set aside 8 ramps. Divide remaining ramps into whites and greens. Thinly slice whites and set aside. Blanch greens in boiling water until bright green, about 45 seconds. Transfer to a fine mesh strainer and run under cold water until completely chilled. Transfer to a blender. Blend on high speed, adding water as necessary, until a smooth, bright green puree is formed. Set aside.
Heat 4 tablespoons butter and olive oil in a large saucepan over medium-high heat until foaming subsides. Add chopped ramp whites and cook, stirring frequently, until lightly browned, about 3 minutes. Add rice and cook, stirring and tossing frequently until all liquid is evaporated, fat is bubbling, and rice has begun to take on a pale golden blond color and nutty aroma, about 3 minutes.
Add wine and cook, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon until mostly absorbed. Add half of stock and cook, stirring occasionally, until mostly absorbed. Add 2 more cups stock, 1 cup at a time, stirring until mostly absorbed after each addition, until rice is nearly done but still slightly chalky in center. Remove from heat and set aside.
Heat remaining 2 tablespoons butter in a large skillet over medium-high heat until foaming subsides. Add reserved ramps and cook, turning occasionally, until lightly browned and tender. Transfer to a large plate.
Return risotto to heat and add remaining half cup stock, parmesan cheese, lemon zest and juice, and ramp green puree. Cook, stirring constantly, until rice is cooked through and risotto is very creamy and loose. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Stir in remaining parsley and chives.
Serve risotto in warm bowls, topped with sautéed ramps and herb ricotta. Serve immediately.
Notes
I prefer using Carnaroli rice for its slightly longer grains and firmer texture. Feel free to use any risotto-style rice like Arborio or Vailone Nano.
Nutrition Facts (per serving) | |
---|---|
531 | Calories |
31g | Fat |
47g | Carbs |
14g | Protein |
Nutrition Facts | |
---|---|
Servings: 4 | |
Amount per serving | |
Calories | 531 |
% Daily Value* | |
Total Fat 31g | 40% |
Saturated Fat 16g | 78% |
Cholesterol 68mg | 23% |
Sodium 738mg | 32% |
Total Carbohydrate 47g | 17% |
Dietary Fiber 5g | 17% |
Total Sugars 6g | |
Protein 14g | |
Vitamin C 35mg | 177% |
Calcium 350mg | 27% |
Iron 3mg | 17% |
Potassium 673mg | 14% |
*The % Daily Value (DV) tells you how much a nutrient in a food serving contributes to a daily diet. 2,000 calories a day is used for general nutrition advice. |