Why It Works
- Rolling the crust to 14 inches creates more surface area to maximize evaporation, helping this pie bake fast.
- Thick slices prevent the peaches from cooking too quickly, so they bake up tender, not mushy.
- Tapioca starch forms a light, clear gel that's never too thick or gloppy.
- Sprinkling the sugar on last prevents the peaches from exuding their juices too soon, making the pie easier to shape.
Ever since I shared the science behind my foolproof cherry pie, folks have wanted to know if the same ratio of sugar, fruit, and starch could be used for a peach pie instead. My answer has always come with an unfortunate caveat: While the formula itself will thicken any fruit from frozen cherries to plump blueberries, the actual technique isn't ideal for larger stone fruits.
That's because tender peaches, nectarines, apricots, and plums are too soft to survive the 75 minutes at 400°F (205°C) needed to fully crisp the crust. So you have to either accept the soggy bottom that comes from a shorter baking time, or resign yourself to cooking that beautiful summer fruit to a pulp. A crime, I tell you. A crime!
The Advantages of Galettes
While some bakers would solve this problem by par-baking the bottom crust, I'd rather streamline a recipe than add an extra step. In this case, the simplest solution is a freeform design. Whether stoneware, glass, or aluminum, all pie pans insulate the dough and filling from the heat of the oven to one degree or another (more on that here). But, more crucially, pie pans corral the filling into a relatively deep layer.
Ditching the pie plate a) removes that bit of insulation, b) decreases the overall depth of the pie, and c) increases the surface area of the pie, all of which help the crust and filling cook through more quickly. On top of that, the open-face design of a galette, as the French would call it, encourages evaporation that concentrates the flavor of the pie.
The result is nothing short of glorious: a crust that bakes up flaky and crisp, peaches that remain juicy but firm, and filling that's neither runny nor dry.
And this is all without the time-consuming hassle of par-baking the crust or macerating the peaches to drain and reduce their juices in advance. What you lose in presentation (no deep-dish wedges here), you gain in speed—the whole thing can be baked, cooled, and ready to serve in 45 minutes flat.
This recipe works best with a half batch of my old-fashioned flaky pie dough, rolled into a 14-inch round and chilled two hours (or up to a day) before use. The filling itself couldn't be simpler. You don't even need to peel the peaches—their skins turn buttery-soft in the oven and add a gorgeous dash of color.
The Simplest Filling Ever
Simply cut the peaches into half-inch wedges and toss with 5.5% of their weight in tapioca starch, nothing more. Holding off on the sugar keeps each slice dry and easy to handle, so you can assemble the pie at your leisure without sticky juices running every which way.
Arrange the peaches atop the chilled dough in a 10-inch ring, then sprinkle with 25% of their weight in sugar. The top-heavy sugar distribution will make the filling look so freakishly dry that you'll doubt my sanity, but that's only because the sugar has had zero opportunity to dissolve. Trust me, even rock-hard supermarket peaches are more than 80% water, so your pie will get plenty juicy in due time.
Assembly and Baking
To form the outer crust, cut a few one-and-a-half-inch slits around the perimeter of the dough. Truth be told, it doesn't matter how many there are; I like one for every serving, but you can certainly add more. Each is folded over the fruit with a slight tug to one side, a motion that ensures each flap of dough will overlap its neighbor, forming a tight seal. Brush the whole thing with egg wash to help the pieces adhere, then bake it at 400°F until it's bubbling-hot, about 35 minutes.
Slide it onto a cool surface (another baking sheet or a cutting board will do), and give it 10 minutes before digging in. If you're not in a hurry, transfer to a cooling rack instead, which will allow air to circulate underneath and prevent the crust from turning soggy with condensation.
Admittedly, a dollop of freeze-dried cherry whipped cream is a bit of lily-gilding, but it's so fast and easy, I couldn't resist (more on that here). Plus, I'm a sucker for pastries that combine different types of stone fruits.
On that note, this recipe works equally well with apricots, nectarines, and plums (cherries too, though their thick skins are well suited to the longer baking time of a traditional pie).
Thanks to its short stay in the oven, this pie is easily adapted to accommodate berries as well. Roughly 20% of the stone fruit can be replaced with an equal weight of your favorite berry, scattered over the top just before baking. (Don't worry—my recipe includes specific measurements for those baking with cups instead.)
However you slice it, freeform pies are your best bet for preserving the wonderful texture of tender summer fruits. They're also the fastest route to pie, making them ideal for last-minute desserts... or just for those of us with no sense of patience.
August 2011
Recipe Details
Freeform Peach Pie (Galette) Recipe
Ingredients
1/2 batch old-fashioned flaky pie dough
For the Filling:
4 large ripe peaches (about 24 ounces; 680g) (see note)
1 ounce tapioca starch (1/4 cup; 28g)
3 1/2 ounces sugar (1/2 cup; 100g)
Pinch of Diamond Crystal kosher salt
For the Egg Wash and Rum:
1 large egg
1 large egg yolk
1/2 ounce heavy cream (1 tablespoon; 15g)
1/8 teaspoon (1/2g) Diamond Crystal kosher salt; for table salt, use half as much by volume or use the same weight
1/2 ounce silver rum (1 tablespoon; 15g)
To Serve (optional):
Directions
Prepare old-fashioned flaky pie dough according to the recipe. After rolling, folding, and dividing dough in half, roll one portion into a 14-inch round. Transfer to a parchment-lined aluminum rimmed baking sheet, cover with plastic, and refrigerate to relax and chill dough, at least 2 hours or up to 24.
For the Filling: Wash peaches (no need to peel) and cut into 1/2-inch slices. Measure out 18 ounces (3 cups; 510g) in a medium bowl. Enjoy any extras as a snack; do not use more or you will overcrowd the pie. Sprinkle tapioca starch over peaches and toss until well combined.
Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position and preheat to 400°F (205°C). Arrange peaches in a ring in the center of chilled dough, tiling slices like dominoes and leaving about a 2-inch border of dough all around. Sprinkle sugar on top of peaches and finish with a pinch of salt. With a sharp knife, cut a series of slits in the border of dough, each running from fruit to edge of dough, spacing them about 5 inches apart. Fold each segment of dough over peaches, tugging gently so the edge of each segment tightly overlaps the one that came before. Refrigerate pie while you prepare egg wash, but no longer than 15 minutes.
For the Egg Wash: Whisk egg, egg yolk, cream, and salt in a small bowl. Brush over chilled dough in a thin, even layer (including under each flap). This will give the crust a glossy, golden sheen and help bind the pieces together.
Bake until pie is quite juicy, about 20 minutes, then pause to brush rum over any undissolved pockets of sugar. (If sugar is well dissolved, just brush it over the sugar anyway.) Continue baking until golden brown around the edges and bubbling in the center, about 15 minutes longer. Let cool 5 minutes, then slice into wedges and serve warm, with a side of whipped cream if desired.
Special Equipment
Rolling pin, rimmed baking sheet, parchment paper, pastry brush
Notes
This recipe works equally well with plums, nectarines, and other stone fruit. It can also be made with 14 ounces sliced fruit (2 1/3 cups; 395g) and 4 ounces (1 shy cup; 115g) fresh blueberries or blackberries.
Read More
Nutrition Facts (per serving) | |
---|---|
350 | Calories |
15g | Fat |
49g | Carbs |
5g | Protein |
Nutrition Facts | |
---|---|
Servings: 6 to 8 | |
Amount per serving | |
Calories | 350 |
% Daily Value* | |
Total Fat 15g | 20% |
Saturated Fat 6g | 28% |
Cholesterol 72mg | 24% |
Sodium 260mg | 11% |
Total Carbohydrate 49g | 18% |
Dietary Fiber 2g | 9% |
Total Sugars 21g | |
Protein 5g | |
Vitamin C 6mg | 28% |
Calcium 24mg | 2% |
Iron 1mg | 8% |
Potassium 226mg | 5% |
*The % Daily Value (DV) tells you how much a nutrient in a food serving contributes to a daily diet. 2,000 calories a day is used for general nutrition advice. |