If You Like Frittatas, You'll Love This Herb-Packed Persian Egg Recipe

Kookoos are a popular and large class of Persian egg-centric dishes, the most famous of which is the herb-packed variety kookoo-sabzi that I'm sharing my recipe for here. While it might be tempting to say that kookoos are the Persian version of well known Western egg-centric dishes such as souffle, omelette, frittata, and quiche, these terms do not adequately describe the nature of Persian kookoos.

Unlike souffles, kookoos do not fall. Unlike quiches, kookoos do not have a crust. Unlike omelettes, kookoos are not folded or rolled and are much thicker than the typical omelette. The mix-ins of kookoos are chopped into much smaller pieces than those of typical frittatas and some kookoo mix-ins are even mashed. Therefore, the best way to refer to this class of Persian egg-centric dishes is simply what Persians and Iranians call it: kookoo. 

There is a wide variety of kookoos in the Persian cookery landscape: They can be made with different members of the allium family (onions, garlic, chives, leeks), different vegetables (eggplant, zucchini, celery, green beans, fava beans, beets, spinach), different starchy root vegetables (potatoes, sweet potatoes, yams), and even fresh unripe green almonds.

The word sabzi means green herbs, and a kookoo-sabzi is packed with fresh, green herbs like cilantro, parsley, and dill. They're finely minced along with aromatic alliums such a Persian leaks, chives, or scallion greens. While most kookoos are vegetarian, there are some meat-based kookoos where finely minced lamb, beef, poultry, or seafood is incorporated, along with one or more vegetables. 

Whatever the variety, the kookoo ingredients are thoroughly mixed with whisked eggs, well seasoned, and cooked on the stovetop until the exterior is lightly browned on both sides and the egg mixture is firm. A finished kookoo is typically an inch- to an inch and a half–thick disc that's sliced and served in wedges. Versatile and diverse, kookoos can be enjoyed hot or cold, as a main course, side dish, snack, or even as a sandwich. They're perfect for eating at home or taking along to potlucks and picnics.

The Etymology, History, and Tradition of Kookoos

The earliest known references to kookoos in the Persian culinary landscape are in the two oldest surviving Persian cookbooks from the 16th century. The fact that kookoos are referred to in both of these cookbooks is an indication that they were well known in the area that is now Iran during that time frame.

Several food historians and culinary writers, including Alan Davidson, Editor of The Oxford Companion to Food, and Heather Arndt Anderson, author of Breakfast: A History, tell us that the earliest omelettes are thought to have been cooked in the ancient Persian and Arab worlds. Kookoos can then be considered as an evolution of those early omelettes. The concept of these early omelettes appears to have moved throughout the Middle East and North Africa before reaching Europe, morphing into such culinary delights as the Spanish tortilla and Italian frittata. 

The closest comparison to kookoo in other food cultures is likely the tortilla de patatas (or tortilla Española), a famous Spanish egg and potato dish. But although the cooking technique (including the flipping part) and the thickness of these two egg dishes are similar, the rest of it (particularly the size and variety of mix-ins) is very different. It should also be noted that in contemporary Middle Eastern cookery—particularly in Egypt—there is a similar class of dishes known as eggah.

Kookoo-sabzis originated from Azari communities in northwestern Iran, not surprising as kookoo-sabzi is also popular in the country of Azerbaijan—the northeastern neighbor of Iran. These days, kookoo-sabzi is popular across the entire country of Iran as well as in the Iranian diaspora around the world.

One reason for kookoo-sabzi’s fame and popularity is that it is one of the key elements of the most important meal during Nowruz, the Persian New Year celebrations. In this meal, herb-flavored steamed rice–called sabzi-polow–is accompanied by wedges of kookoo-sabzi and pan-fried fish. In addition, kookoo-sabzi is an important part of Christmas and Easter meals for Iranian Armenians.

Key Ingredients in an Herb Kookoo

Herbs: Herbs play a critical role in Persian cookery as they are used across all types of savory dishes. Kookoo-sabzi uses several different herbs. When it comes to the mixture of fresh herbs, kookoo-sabzi is very forgiving. As long as you have a total of about 15 ounces (400g) of mixed chopped fresh parsley, cilantro, dill, and leek, per eight eggs, you will have a successful kookoo-sabzi. 

Persian Leek: Persian leek (Allium ampeloprasum ssp. persicum) is a cultivated allium native to the Middle East and Iran. It has a mild oniony flavor and is eaten both raw and cooked in a wide range of Persian dishes. It is called tareh in Persian. It resembles the top half of common leek in appearance (folded flat linear leaf sheaths) but is much thinner, smaller, and more delicate.

Persian leek is often incorrectly labeled garlic chives or spring onions but is different from those plants. Persian leeks are used, along with other herbs, in traditional Persian soups, meat braises, meat dumplings, and stuffed vegetables. Fresh Persian leeks are cheap and are often available year-round in specialty Persian, Afghani, and Middle Eastern markets. If you do not have access to these specialty markets, you can easily substitute an equal amount by weight of the green parts of scallions, chives, or even the middle third section of regular common leeks.

While diced dried Persian leeks are commonly available in Persian, Afghani, and Middle Eastern markets, their flavor suffers greatly when dried. If fresh leeks are unavailable, opt for the fresh substitutes mentioned in the recipe rather than dried Persian leeks. Chopped fresh Persian leeks are very freezer friendly. When they are available, I always buy a large quantity, chop them finely, and freeze them in one-cup portions in freezer bags.

Fenugreek: Fenugreek (Trigonella foenum-graecum) is an annual plant. Its leaves consist of three obovate leaflets (teardrop-shaped with stems attached to the tapering end). Its leaves (fresh or dried) have been used as an herb and its seeds as a spice since ancient times.

Fresh fenugreek leaves are slightly bitter, but once cooked, they take on a subtle bittersweet flavor and a uniquely pleasing aroma that fills the kitchen–often lingering for days. It is the herb that defines not only this famous Persian kookoo but also the most famous Persian braised meat dish, ghormeh-sabzi.

Fresh fenugreek becomes available for a short period between late spring and midsummer. It is very difficult to find fresh fenugreek in North America or Europe. Some specialty Persian, Afghani, or Indian markets may carry it during its short growing season. However, practically speaking, all Persian home cooks use dried crushed fenugreek leaves for this dish, and so should you. 

It is a powerful dried herb, so a small amount goes a long way. Dried crushed fenugreek leaves are readily available in the spice section of many well stocked supermarkets, and in all specialty Middle Eastern, Mediterranean, and Indian markets, as well as through a variety of online spice markets such as Penzeys, Kalustyan’s, and The Spice House. Please note that this dish uses fenugreek leaves, not fenugreek seed, which is a popular spice in Indian cookery.

Dried Barberry: Barberries (berberis) are the tiny, bright red fruit of a spiny shrub. Rich in vitamin C and pectin, they have a pleasant tangy flavor. In Persian cookery, barberries are used widely as a souring agent in rice dishes, braises, and egg-centric dishes, where they provide brilliant dots of vivid red as well as bursts of intense flavor. Unlike crushed dried fenugreek leaves, dried barberries are carried by very few neighborhood grocery stores in the West. However, they are readily available in all specialty Middle Eastern and Mediterranean markets, or for online purchase.

If you’re unfamiliar with barberries, I recommend you get to know them. They’re showing up more and more in popular culinary writings and recipes. I am certain that barberries will soon become the next za'atar, the next sumac, or the next pomegranate molasses.

Both crushed dried fenugreek leaves and dried barberries are also available through online stores that specialize in Persian ingredients, such as Kalamala Persian Grocery, Sadaf, Persian Basket, and Tavazo—and of course on Amazon.com. 

Methods for Flipping the Kookoo

Generally speaking, all kookoos are made by beating many eggs, adding a good amount of finely chopped raw or cooked mix-ins, and pan-frying the mixture in a sauté pan or skillet until firm on the bottom and at the edges, but still a bit runny in the center and top. The partially cooked kookoo is then flipped (in one piece or in manageable segments) to cook the other side. Since both sides of the kookoo are in contact with the hot surface of the pan, a delicious, very thin, golden skin is formed on both sides of the kookoo. 

The only semi-tricky part of making kookoos is flipping the partially cooked egg mixture. For those less experienced, flipping the large round kookoo in one fluid swoop may seem like a daunting task. To help with this, I’ve given options for flipping it, and regardless of which flipping method I use to ensure the kookoo flips easily, I always dust off my rarely used nonstick skillet for making kookoo so it releases easily from the pan.

The first method is based on the oldest detailed recipe for kookoo from a Persian cookbook published around 1520 describing this task: It directs the cook to cut the partially cooked kookoo into segments (typically four quarters) and flip each individually. This is the most common (as well as easiest and safest) flipping method among Persian home cooks and is consistent with my own childhood memories watching family members making kookoos. 

The second method, which is a bit tricky and more risky than the first, is to flip the entire partially cooked kookoo in one piece. No, I don’t mean to flip it into the air with a single flick of the wrist and then try to catch it back in the skillet. It is too heavy, and the middle of it is too runny for such TV show action. You’d end up with splattered egg mess across your kitchen floor.

To flip the kookoo in one piece, once the eggs are partially cooked but the middle is still a soft and runny, work over the sink (in case anything is dropped) and hold the skillet with one hand, and turn a large plate (or some other heatproof vessel such a baking sheet or heatproof cutting board) on top of the skillet. Put a dish towel on top of the plate, place your hand on top of the dishtowel, and, in one quick motion, invert the skillet so the kookoo falls into the plate. Return the now empty skillet back to the stovetop, add another tablespoon of butter or oil to the skillet, and carefully slide the kookoo from the plate back into the skillet to continue the cooking process.

If you are lucky enough to have two skillets approximately the same size, you can also flip the kookoo into the second skillet: When it is time to flip the kookoo, evenly spread the one tablespoon of butter or oil in the second skillet. Take the skillet that has the partially cooked kookoo over to a sink, turn over the second skillet on top of it. Put a dish towel on top of the second skillet, place your hand on top of the dishtowel, and, in one quick motion, invert the first skillet causing the kookoo to fall into the second skillet. Continue the cooking process with the partially cooked kookoo in the second skillet.

Once you've gotten your kookoo flipped, the hard work is done, and all that's left after it finishes cooking is to slice, serve, and enjoy!

How to Serve Kookoo-Sabzi

Since most often kookoo-sabzi (and all other types of Persian kookoo) is made in a round frying pan, it is typically served in wedges. Wedges of kookoo-sabzi (and all other types of Persian Kookoos) can be served as a starter or a side dish. It can also constitute the main component of a meal when accompanied with, for example, a bowl of Persian yogurt with cucumber dish, mast-o-khiar, a plate of fresh herbs, and some flat bread. 

Kookoos are also popular as an accompaniment for a rice-based meal. In fact, the oldest kookoo-sabzi recipe from the 16th century suggests it be served along with traditional Persian steamed rice, chelow. 

Persians adore kookoo-sabzi sandwiches, traditionally built with Persian bolki bread, which can easily be substituted with any readily available roll you like. For the best experience, try a crusty Vietnamese banh mi roll. Hero rolls, ciabatta, baguettes, or batons also work well. To assemble your perfect kookoo-sabzi sandwich: Slit your chosen bread roll open. Slather the inside with butter and your preferred spicy mustard. Fill the sandwich with a few pieces of cold kookoo-sabzi. Add thinly sliced tomatoes and dill pickle strips. For an extra textural dimension, add a few walnut halves, or spread a teaspoon of dried barberries on the inside of the bread for extra tanginess.