Why It Works
- Blending kumquats and then straining the purée results in a smooth, full-flavored curd that's light on prep work.
- An optional layer of kumquat jam intensifies the flavor of the curd with each bite.
When I got my first pastry chef gig, I decided I wanted to take ingredients that were often used simply as garnish and shine the spotlight on them. Enter the noble kumquat.
Hopefully you know what a kumquat is. If you do, you probably only know it as a candied little slice used to brighten up winter dessert plates. But fresh kumquats are one of my favorite cold weather snacks—little oblong fruits of pure sour sunshine, with their sweet thin skins and burst of tart juice in the center. They have a very unique flavor that makes them ideal for all kinds of preserving.
Since the restaurant I worked for was opening at the end of winter, citrus was one of the only things I had to work with. Everybody loves a nice lemon tart, but what about a kumquat tart? Since it pairs so beautifully with vanilla, I gave the tart a rich vanilla bean sablé crust. I also used a curd recipe that contains olive oil; the grassy flavor of extra virgin olive oil brings out the vegetal notes in the kumquats.*
*Wondering how to zest and juice all those little buggers? This is the best part: you don't have to! Just dump them in the blender and you're good!
I also decided to put a layer of handmade kumquat marmalade between the curd and the crust, to add an extra punch of kumquat flavor. Which, when you're going for kumquat in the spotlight, isn't a bad thing at all. You can omit it, or use any complimentary flavor of jam or marmalade. I've also used sour orange marmalade to good effect. If you want things a little sweeter, strawberry jam goes beautifully with kumquat.
Another thing I did at the restaurant to add textural contrast was to sprinkle each slice with sugar and brûlée it. However, I don't have a torch at home and the curd would likely melt under a broiler. If you really want to add a nice crunch without the burning, fold a small handful of poppy seeds into the curd post-straining.
I was told by a friend that this dessert was very adult. It's refreshing yet rich, a fresh take on the citrus tart genre and certainly not overly sweet. The marmalade gives it a chewy note that a more grown-up palate will certainly appreciate.
January 2013
Recipe Details
Kumquat Tart Recipe
Ingredients
For the Crust (see note):
5 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon unsalted butter, softened
1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons confectioners' sugar
1/2 vanilla bean
1 egg yolk
1 1/4 cups (about 5 ounces) cake flour
Pinch salt
For the Curd:
2 cups fresh kumquats
3/4 cup (about 5 ounces) sugar
2 teaspoons cornstarch
2 eggs
2 egg yolks
1/2 cup (8 tablespoons) butter, cut in 1/2 inch cubes
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Optional:
1/4 cup jam or marmalade
Directions
For the Crust: Place butter and confectioners' sugar in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment. Split and scrape vanilla bean and add scrapings to bowl, reserving pod for another use. Set mixer on medium-low speed and mix until butter is light and fluffy, about 2 minutes, scraping as necessary. With mixer running, add yolk, then scrape bowl. Add cake flour and salt and mix on low until fully incorporated, about 15 seconds. Transfer to a lightly floured board, pat into a 4-inch circle, wrap in plastic and chill at least 30 minutes.
Position a rack in the middle of the oven. Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Roll out dough on a lightly floured surface to a 1/8-inch thickness, turning often to keep the dough as circular as possible. Place an 8-inch springform pan in the middle of the dough and cut a circle one inch larger than the pan around it. Remove the pan and center the dough in it, smoothing it into the bottom. Don't worry if it tears or folds over itself; the dough is very forgiving and you can patch it as you need to. Make sure you have a nice right angle all the way around the edge and flatten the extra dough against the rim of the pan. Measure with a ruler to be sure it's an inch high all the way around, trimming with a paring knife if necessary. Dock the bottom of the crust with a fork, paring knife, or cake tester, then freeze until solid, at least 10 minutes.
Place the crust in the center of the oven and bake for 10 minutes, then turn and bake for another 5 minutes. If the crust has bubbled up when you go to turn it, gently press the bubbles down with your hand, using an oven mitt or dry kitchen towel. Set crust aside until fully cooled, at least 10 minutes.
Remove the outer ring from the springform pan. If using, put the jam or marmalade in a small saucepan and warm over low heat until liquid. Pour into crust and spread evenly with a small offset spatula or the back of a spoon. Set aside.
For the Filling: Place kumquats in a blender and blend until finely puréed. Place in a medium saucepan, set aside. Combine sugar and cornstarch in a small bowl and whisk until incorporated. Whisk into kumquat purée. Add eggs and yolks and whisk to combine. Set a fine-mesh strainer over a medium bowl. Set a timer for 2 minutes but don't start it yet. Place kumquat mixture over medium heat, whisking constantly, until the mixture boils, about 5 minutes. Once mixture begins boiling, turn on the timer. Whisk constantly while the mixture boils to cook the cornstarch, being careful not to scorch on the bottom. Once timer goes off, immediately remove from heat and whisk in butter and olive oil. Once incorporated, press through strainer into bowl, discarding the solids. Scrape filling into crust and spread evenly with a small offset spatula or the back of a spoon. Place in refrigerator and allow to set for at least 2 hours before slicing.
To serve, rock a large chef's knife through the crust first and then through the middle. Pull the knife straight out and wipe it clean before making the next cut. Remove to plates with a cake server or a chef's knife turned sideways. Tart can be stored for up to 3 days in the refrigerator, well wrapped.
Special Equipment
Stand mixer, rolling pin, 8-inch springform pan, blender, medium saucepan, fine-mesh strainer
Notes
You can easily convert this recipe into bars by doubling it, pressing the crust into a 9- by 13-inch cake pan right after mixing while it's still soft.
Make-Ahead and Storage
Tart can be stored for up to 3 days in the refrigerator, well wrapped.
Read More
Nutrition Facts (per serving) | |
---|---|
367 | Calories |
22g | Fat |
38g | Carbs |
6g | Protein |
Nutrition Facts | |
---|---|
Servings: 8 to 10 | |
Amount per serving | |
Calories | 367 |
% Daily Value* | |
Total Fat 22g | 28% |
Saturated Fat 11g | 57% |
Cholesterol 172mg | 57% |
Sodium 129mg | 6% |
Total Carbohydrate 38g | 14% |
Dietary Fiber 3g | 11% |
Total Sugars 23g | |
Protein 6g | |
Vitamin C 20mg | 100% |
Calcium 53mg | 4% |
Iron 2mg | 11% |
Potassium 143mg | 3% |
*The % Daily Value (DV) tells you how much a nutrient in a food serving contributes to a daily diet. 2,000 calories a day is used for general nutrition advice. |