Moules Frites

Since welcoming our first child in August, my husband and I have relied on the fastest, easiest, bang-for-your-buck meals because, as any new parent will tell you, we’re exhausted. A meal that ticks all of these boxes? Moules frites, a Belgian meal of steamed mussels served alongside French fries and mayonnaise. It’s an affordable, delicious dinner that takes about 30 minutes from start to finish, and with an aromatic broth for sopping up with fries or chunks of bread, these briny little mussels make even the most mundane weeknight feel like a night out at a local bistro.

Like many iconic dishes, the origins of moules frites are slightly murky. Though Flemish people have long enjoyed mussels on their own, often as a cheaper alternative to fish, it wasn’t until the 1800s that cooks began pairing the mollusc with French fries. According to reporter Lukas Taylor, it was the widow of a man named Frédéric Krieger (who ran a “friterie,” a restaurant specializing in fries and fast food) who came up with the idea to sell mussels and fries together. When Brussels hosted the World’s Fair in 1958, numerous vendors sold moules frites, “solidifying its reputation as Belgium’s go-to meal in the eyes of the world,” Taylor writes for The Brussels Times. Today, the dish is a staple on bistro and tavern menus around the world—and with just a few tips and tricks, you can easily make a delicious version of it at home.

How to Store and Prep Mussels for Cooking

If you need to remember one thing about purchasing and storing mussels, it’s the fresher, the better. Look for live mussels that are tightly shut, glistening, and stored on ice. Once dead, their shells open and they’re prone to spoilage; to check if your mussels are alive, tap them lightly with another mussel. If the mollusc doesn’t close, it’s dead to you—and your meal—and should be disposed of. And when in doubt, always trust your nose. Fresh mussels shouldn’t smell fishy or have any kind of strong odor. Not to sound too idyllic, but they should smell like the fresh ocean breeze. To keep mussels as fresh as possible, refrigerate them in a bowl placed on top of ice and keep them covered with a damp towel. This not only keeps the mussels cool, but will help them retain moisture.

The peskiest part of preparing wild mussels is freeing them of debris. Most grocery stores, however, source farm-raised mussels that grow on vertical ropes. Unlike wild mussels, these arrive quite clean. As Kenji mentioned in his guide on cleaning and debearding mussels, “farm-raised mussels are held in tanks prior to packaging and shipping, which means that the purging step—soaking the mussels in clean water until they spit out impurities—has already been done for you.” 

You’ll still want to give them a quick rinse and scrub; simply place the shellfish in a large bowl or colander and run them under cold water, using your hands or a brush to lightly scour and rid the mussels of any dirt. Though it’s unlikely farm-raised mussels will still have their beard—the stringy fibers that grow along the lip of the mollusc and help them anchor themselves to ropes and rocks—if any remain, you can easily remove them by pulling them firmly towards the hinge of the mussel.

French Fries: Fresh or Frozen?

There’s a time and place for fresh homemade fries, but a low-lift weeknight meal is not it. Please be assured that even Serious Eats editors—this tired mom, anyway!—will reach for frozen fries when the occasion calls for it. If you have the energy to make fries from scratch, great! And if not, that’s also okay! There are plenty of good options in the frozen aisle at the store, and you can heat them up in the oven or your air fryer. Really, whatever is easiest for you. My only piece of advice? Season them well, because nobody wants to eat bland potatoes. 

If you do go the homemade route and are looking to recreate the traditional bistro experience, you’ll probably want thin, crispy fries. But if you’re like me and prefer slightly skinnier fries, Sho’s shoestring ones are the way to go.

How to Prepare Moules Frites

Moules frites are extraordinarily simple to make, and much of the dish’s flavor comes from the shellfish itself. But there are a few ways we can enhance this simple meal, namely by sweating the aromatics, using a little wine, and utilizing the mussels’ juices in the sauce. 

The most arduous part of the cooking process is the time it takes to sauté the shallots and garlic. When raw, both the alliums can have a harsh, pungent flavor. It’s worth slowly cooking them in butter for a few extra minutes. As the vegetables soften, they will begin to develop a pleasant, mellow sweetness that’ll complement the brininess of the mussels. Just make sure to keep an eye on the vegetables to avoid browning; the goal is to sauté them as gently as possible. 

Once the shallots and garlic have softened, add a splash of dry white wine to the pot—while also pouring yourself a glass, of course—and reduce it for several minutes. This helps to not only cook off the alcohol, but it also concentrates the wine’s sugars and adds body to the sauce. It’s the last step for the sauce before the mussels go in, and once they do, you’re just five minutes out from having dinner on the table. Give the mussels a good shake and let them steam; as the mussels cook, they’ll release their juices into the sauce, lending it a savory depth of flavor. A touch of fresh lemon zest and juice brings it all together, and that’s all there is to it. It’s a lot of flavor for not a lot of effort. See: the best kind of dinner.