Why It Works
- Simmering prunes in a tart, aromatic brine results in a delicious, balanced pickle.
Prunes get a bad rap. Most people think you need an AARP member card to buy them. Thing is, they start out life as plums and are really no different than a raisin is to a grape. Manufacturers like Sunsweet and Sun Maid have been playing this up, rebranding their prune packaging with words "dried plums." Whether you buy into this new branding or not, I firmly believe it's time to start rethinking the prune.
One way to start re-imagining the prune is to pickle it. You simmer a pound of them in a spiced liquid of tart red wine vinegar, brown sugar, and honey. After 20 minutes on the stove, the prunes are warm, plump, perfectly sweet and tart.
If the idea of pickled prunes isn't floating your boat yet, I entreat you to cast your mind back to the last time you ate chicken Marbella. One of the most beloved recipes from the classic Silver Palate Cookbook, it was everywhere when I was a kid. Back then, I wasn't particularly excited by the idea of prunes and olives with my chicken, but a few years ago, someone brought it to a family gathering and I fell in love.
I spent most of the evening picking the prunes and olives out of the dish and eating them together. There was something about the briny, salty flavor of the olives with the intense sweetness of the prunes that I couldn't get enough of. These pickled prunes combine those two flavors into a single, easily storable bite. And, when I get a craving for Chicken Marbella, I make a quick, faux version using leftover roast chicken and these prunes.
These pickled prunes also go really well with roasted meats and assertive cheeses. I like to roughly chop a couple and whisk them into the vinaigrette to drizzle over a sturdy green like arugula.
Thanks to Molly Wizenberg for first introducing me to the idea of pickled prunes and to hardlikearmor at Food52, for reminding me how good they can be.
January 2012
Recipe Details
Pickled Prunes Recipe
Ingredients
- 1 pound pitted prunes
- 1 cup red wine vinegar
- 1 small blood orange, zest removed with peeler
- 1/4 cup brown sugar
- 1/4 cup honey
- 1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger
- 1/4 teaspoon black peppercorns
- 1/4 teaspoon whole cloves
- 1/8 teaspoon chile flakes
- 4 green cardamom pods
- 3 allspice berries
- 1 star anise
- 1 bay leaf
- Pinch sea salt
Directions
Combine prunes and red wine vinegar in a medium saucepan.
Add strips of blood orange zest and juice the fruit into the pan.
Add the rest of the ingredients and bring to a simmer.
Cook for 15-20 minutes, until the prunes have plumped and the liquid has reduced to a thin syrup.
Remove pan from heat and let prunes cool a little.
Spoon into a jar and refrigerate. Pickled prunes will keep in the fridge for up to one month.
Special Equipment
Saucepan, storage jar