Why It Works
- Bitter radicchio is tempered with the addition of milder endive varieties and parsley leaves.
- A punched-up caesar dressing stands up to the bitter greens.
- Toasted walnuts and apple add textural interest and help balance the bitterness and acidity of the dressed greens.
Ever since tasting April Bloomfield's awesome fall green salads at The John Dory (now shuttered), that combination of crisp, bitter greens, and savory anchovy dressing has been one of my favorite combinations.
Winter greens by their very nature are hearty in both texture and flavor. Radicchio, with its dark purple, frilly cabbage-like leaves are the bitterest of the lot, so I like to cut them with sweeter greens like Belgian endive. The latter are grown completely underground to incur a process called etiolation, a natural occurrence in plants that grow in low-light conditions. In an effort to reach the light, rapid growth takes place, resulting in weaker cell structure, and no formation of chlorophyll. This is good for us when more tender leaves and a less bitter flavor are what we're after. Tight, pale yellow or pure white endives are what to look for.
Similarly, frisée (or curly endive) is sweetest at its core, where the sunlight has yet to reach, and the small leafy stems are still pale yellow and tender. For the best tasting frisée, you should discard the tougher dark green outer leaves (or save them for soup), using just the pale green and yellow cores.
The anchovy dressing is a heavy-on-the-anchovy variation of a classic Caesar dressing. Mayo-based, with lemon juice and Worcestershire sauce adding acidity and bright depth.
With a few slivers of apples to add sweetness and some crunchy toasted walnuts, it becomes a simple salad that manages to hit you with enough levels of flavor and texture to eat like a full on meal.
December 2012
Recipe Details
Winter Green Salad With Walnuts, Apples, and Parmesan-Anchovy Dressing Recipe
Ingredients
- 1/2 cup store-bought or homemade mayonnaise
- 1 ounce finely grated parmesan cheese
- 6 whole anchovy fillets, mashed into a paste with the back of a fork
- 2 teaspoons juice from 1 lemon
- 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
- Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
- 2 whole Belgian endives, core removed, leaves cut into 1/8th-inch slivers
- 1 head radicchio, finely sliced
- 1 quart loosely packed frisée (curly endive) fronds, pale green and yellow parts only (about 2 heads' worth)
- 1 large tart apple such as Fuji or Granny Smith, cut into 1/8th-inch matchsticks
- 1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley leaves
- 2 cups toasted walnuts
Directions
Combine mayonnaise, parmesan, mashed anchovy, lemon juice, and Worcestershire sauce in a medium bowl and whisk to combine. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
Toss endive, radicchio, frisée, apples, and parsley with dressing to taste. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Add nuts and toss briefly. Serve immediately.