Perk Up Roasted Brussels Sprouts With This Easy, Flavorful Dressing

Cabbagey brussels sprouts and candy-sweet butternut squash may not seem like obvious bedfellows at first glance, but the two vegetables come together beautifully when united by the heat of a hot oven—both develop more complex flavors as they roast, growing increasingly earthy with a bittersweet caramel edge the darker they get. Here, I reinforce those flavors with a punchy yet balanced dressing that blends warm spices with fresh herbs, sweet honey, and pungent mustard seeds and grated garlic.

If you dislike brussels sprouts, it’s likely because you’ve had them overcooked until mushy. A longer cooking time at a lower temperature does all the wrong things to brussels sprouts, bringing out an unpleasant sulfurous aroma and driving the interesting texture of their layered leaves towards a pasty nothingness. Roasting is a much better and more forgiving method to cook these magnificent little cabbage cousins: the high, dry heat helps draw out water and turns them satisfyingly crisp, while also caramelizing naturally-occurring sugars in the vegetable for a sweeter bite. The Maillard reaction, a sequence of chemical reactions that takes place when heat transforms sugars and proteins, helps develop bittersweet, nutty flavors in the vegetables as they roast. Similar processes are playing out with the butternut squash, which roasts on the same baking sheet as the sprouts.

I like to add a tiny amount—1/4 teaspoon—of baking soda to the brussels sprouts and butternut squash before cooking them. The baking soda acts as a catalyst and accelerates both caramelization and the Maillard reaction, while also softening the pectin in the squash for a softer, creamier interior.

Once the vegetables are cooked, I toss them in a bright dressing of lemon juice, olive oil, fresh dill, cilantro, and garlic. A jalapeño adds a touch of heat, and the smokiness of toasted cumin, coriander, and mustard seeds complements the earthy flavors of the roasted vegetables. Sweet and tangy, this is the perfect side dish for a large fall or winter gathering. Don’t have butternut squash? Feel free to use another winter squash like kabocha, red kuri, or a sugar pumpkin instead.