Why It Works
- Roasting the broccoli concentrates its flavor and adds deep, savory notes from Maillard browning.
- Buttermilk adds creaminess and a balanced acidity.
- Adding olive oil to the soup as it blends provides extra richness.
- The seasoned pumpkin seeds add textural contrast, yet more roasted notes, and little bursts of spicy, herbal, and lemony flavor.
I shop at the farmers market with the best intentions, but I'll admit that sometimes my enthusiasm is greater than the time I have to cook everything I buy. Just last week I picked up a beautiful bright green head of broccoli with tight florets, then let days pass without doing anything with it. Eventually I opened the fridge and saw it languishing there, a slight sag to its stalks, the vivid green washing away.
It hadn't gone bad, but it wasn't at its best. Situations like that call for soup: blended, creamy soup. Because my broccoli had lost its zest, I didn't want to try to capture its freshness by blanching it. Instead, I opted for the more significant transformation of roasting—it was already headed to dried and brown on its own, why not take it there a lot faster and get some good flavor out of it at the same time?
Now, that was the reality behind my version of this soup, and it's a good lesson in resourcefulness.* But of course I advise you to use fresh broccoli that's still at its peak. My soup tasted very good with not very good broccoli, yours will taste even better with good broccoli.
*A better lesson, though, would be me learning to cook the broccoli sooner, or buying less at the farmers market each week.
To make the soup, I followed a tried-and-true creamy-soup-making method, which Kenji has detailed excellently in this piece. I started by tossing my broccoli in olive oil and roasting it until browned and tender.
Then I sweated onion and garlic in olive oil, flavored it with some coriander seed and crushed red pepper, and added the broccoli.
I added some buttermilk, for a light dairy flavor and tang, along with vegetable stock, and blended it all until smooth, working a little extra olive oil into the puree in the blender. It'll come out of the blender a little thick, but you can return it to the pot and thin it with more vegetable stock until the consistency is just right.
As Kenji describes in his creamy soup article, it's nice to add a little touch of acid to a finished soup, but in this case I left it out since the buttermilk is already lending it just enough tartness.
I had some extra pepitas lying around from my Mexican butternut squash soup, so I tossed them with olive oil and spices like turmeric, cumin, coriander, and mustard seed and toasted them in the oven while the soup was cooking. Once they were done, I mixed in a little extra olive oil along with parsley and lemon zest. It's a great garnish for this soup.
Eating the soup, no one would have guessed it was a salvage job. Except now I've gone and told the whole world. Dammit.
October 2014
Recipe Details
Creamy Roasted-Broccoli Soup With Buttermilk and Spiced Pepitas Recipe
Ingredients
2 pounds broccoli, stalk trimmed and heads cut into florets
10 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
1 large yellow onion, thinly sliced (about 1 1/2 cups)
4 medium cloves garlic, crushed (about 4 teaspoons)
1 teaspoon ground coriander seed, divided
1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes
1 1/2 cups buttermilk
1 1/2 quarts homemade or store-bought low-sodium chicken stock or vegetable stock
Kosher salt
1 cup pumpkin seeds
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin (see note)
1/4 teaspoon ground mustard seed
1/4 teaspoon turmeric
2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley
Zest of 1 lemon
Directions
Preheat oven to 375°F (190°C). Toss broccoli with 2 tablespoons olive oil and spread in an even layer on 2 rimmed baking sheets. Transfer to oven and roast until broccoli is tender and browned, about 25 minutes.
In a Dutch oven, heat 2 tablespoons olive oil over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add onion and garlic and cook, stirring, until softened, about 3 minutes. Stir in 1/2 teaspoon coriander seed and red pepper flakes and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute.
Add roasted broccoli, buttermilk, and just enough stock to barely cover vegetables. Bring to a simmer, then remove from heat. Working in batches if necessary, transfer vegetables and liquid to a blender. Starting on the lowest speed and gradually increasing to the highest speed, blend broccoli until a smooth puree forms. Drizzle in 4 tablespoons total olive oil while blender is running and return to a clean pot. Add as much of the remaining vegetable stock as necessary to thin to a creamy soup consistency. Season with salt.
Meanwhile, lower oven to 350°F (175°C). In a mixing bowl, toss pepitas with 2 tablespoons olive oil, remaining 1/2 teaspoon ground coriander, cumin, mustard seed, and turmeric. Season with salt. Transfer to a parchment-lined baking sheet and roast until fragrant, about 10 minutes. Let cool.
Scrape toasted spiced pepitas into a mixing bowl and stir in parsley, lemon zest, and remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil.
Warm the soup, then spoon it into bowls. Top with spiced pepitas and some of their oil. Serve right away.
Special Equipment
Dutch oven, blender, 2 rimmed baking sheets
Notes
As a shortcut, you can substitute the spices used for the pepitas with an equal amount of store-bought curry powder. If the store-bought curry powder is salted, be sure to taste pepitas before adding salt.
Read More
Nutrition Facts (per serving) | |
---|---|
316 | Calories |
22g | Fat |
23g | Carbs |
10g | Protein |
Nutrition Facts | |
---|---|
Servings: 5 to 7 | |
Amount per serving | |
Calories | 316 |
% Daily Value* | |
Total Fat 22g | 29% |
Saturated Fat 3g | 17% |
Cholesterol 2mg | 1% |
Sodium 813mg | 35% |
Total Carbohydrate 23g | 8% |
Dietary Fiber 7g | 25% |
Total Sugars 7g | |
Protein 10g | |
Vitamin C 91mg | 456% |
Calcium 153mg | 12% |
Iron 2mg | 13% |
Potassium 812mg | 17% |
*The % Daily Value (DV) tells you how much a nutrient in a food serving contributes to a daily diet. 2,000 calories a day is used for general nutrition advice. |