Roasted Mushrooms With Bacon and Eggs From 'Downtown Italian'

Gabriel Thompson's recipe for Roasted Mushrooms with Bacon and Eggs, from Downtown Italian, written with Katherine Thompson and Joe Campanale, sounds innocent enough, but comes at you guns blazing, all garlicky, salty, and wild.

First, mushrooms (shiitake or any other variety that looks good to you) are pan-roasted in butter and olive oil until deeply browned all over. (I loved the specificity of the directions to cook them in three batches, which perfectly allowed the pound of mushrooms to caramelize all over without steaming. Many recipes simply say to "cook in batches," which has enough wiggle room to allow the impatient—like myself—to crowd the pan, so I appreciate the clear directive.) Just as they were, cooked so carefully and seasoned as instructed, the mushrooms were irresistible; it drove me crazy to try to keep my paws off them, and I will make a plateful just to nibble on very soon. But then Mr. Thompson brings the heat. He cooks down some chopped bacon, adds garlic to fry in the fat, then mixes in strips of hot pickled peppers and some torn basil. Tossed with this fierce mixture and finished with a glug of lemon juice, the mushrooms are transformed into an unruly, umami smack in the face. Runny-yolked fried eggs, started stovetop and finished gently in the oven, and shavings of mild ricotta salata diffuse the situation a bit, but the mushrooms will still leave you reeling.

While this recipe is in the Antipasti chapter and could make for a knock-'em-dead first course, I'd recommend serving it as a brunch main (with twice the amount per serving) certain to wake everyone right up. While Parmesan is given as an alternative to the ricotta salata, I think the moderating effect of the ricotta would be missed. And Thompson notes in the intro, "This is a great dish for guests because you can cook the mushrooms ahead of time and sauté the rest of the ingredients at the last minute."

From Downtown Italian: Recipes Inspired by Italy, Created in New York's West Village by Joe Campanale, Gabriel Thompson, and Katherine Thompson, Andrews McMeel Publishing, LLC.