Split Pea and Ham Soup

Fresh shelled sweet peas have a fleeting season, just a handful of weeks in the spring when they are small, tender, and relatively high in the simple sugars that give them such a pleasant flavor. As they age they grow increasingly starchy, making them less and less enjoyable to eat as a just-picked vegetable. But that doesn't mean a pea's edible life has come to an end: Dried like so many other of their fellow beans, peas become a shelf-stable and versatile ingredient that are perhaps best known as the main ingredient in split pea soup.

There are countless versions of this soup all over the world, but this simple rendition with smoky pork is an American classic. It hits all the right notes, from its affordability to its deliciousness and its undeniable ability to warm bellies in the colder months. And while it's not exactly a "quick" recipe, given the hour-plus it takes to simmer the peas to melting softness, it couldn't come together more easily. Simply sauté some aromatic vegetables like onion and celery in butter, then add liquid (water works fine, but stock will add more flavor), the peas, and smoky ham, whether diced ham steak or a ham hock. No need to soak the peas first, they'll soften and break down to form a creamy broth just fine after enough time simmering in the pot.

If you want, you can quickly blitz the soup with a blender (even easier: do it right in the pot with an immersion blender) to make the soup even creamier and thick. Then hang you nose over a steaming bowl and breathe in—that's the smell of comfort.