We Ground Oodles of Black Pepper to Test 32 Pepper Mills (And, Yes, Our Wrists Hurt Afterward)

Black pepper is a pungent little berry from the Piper nigrum plant that has been used to flavor dishes since ancient times. It has transcended food fads and trends to remain one of the most ubiquitous spices in our pantry, adding pep (heh!) to a humble plate of scrambled eggs or a hunk of dry-aged steak. The best way to serve and use black pepper is to grind it fresh; take a sniff of pre-ground peppercorn versus freshly cracked stuff and you'll know why.

So, as avid cooks, we decided to review pepper mills again (we first did so in 2017, so it was time for a refresher) to determine the best ones for a fine sprinkle and a chunky grind alike. To do so, we tested 32 mills in a variety of styles, including fill-and-twist, hand crank, and electronic, using them to grind gram after gram of pepper over multiple days (we'll be finding stray peppercorns in our shoes and on the floor for months to come). Read on to find out which pepper mills ground the others into dust (harsh, but true).

The Winners, at a Glance

The Best Overall Pepper Mill

Peugeot Paris Pepper Mill

$48 $38 at Amazon $69 at Williams-Sonoma $62 at Walmart

This pepper mill quickly climbed to the top of our rankings due to its speed, simple preset grind settings, and comfortable grip. It didn’t hurt that it was a looker, too.

Another Great Pepper Mill

Cole & Mason Derwent Pepper Grinder

$45 $40 at Amazon $49 $40 at Walmart $50 at Sur La Table

The first word that came to mind for the Cole & Mason Derwent Pepper Grinder was efficiency. It cranked out a teaspoon of pepper quickly. We also liked the preset grind settings and the generous 53-gram capacity.

The Best Budget-Friendly Pepper Mill

Kuhn Rikon Mini Pepper Grinder

View on Amazon View on Kuhnrikonshop.com

A cheap option does not have to mean a bad option! The Kuhn Rikon Vase Grinder was easy to fill, pleasant to grip, and quick to grind peppercorns. It also comes in a few colors.

The Best Electric Pepper Mill

Cole & Mason Hampstead Electric Pepper Grinder

$61 at Amazon $65 at Sur La Table $65 at Crate & Barrel

This pepper mill was easy to operate and was one of the more efficient electric options. The light that went on during grinding was a nice perk.

The Tests

• Fill Test: We filled each peppercorn mill with the maximum amount of peppercorns it could hold to gauge capacity and how easy it was to fill ‘er up. 
• Speed Test: We used each mill to grind 2.3 grams of pepper (which is approximately one teaspoon), timing the process and counting how many complete twists it took. We repeated this three times and took the averages of the results. Since each mill has different grind settings, we set the mills to a middle grind size so we could accurately compare results. We also noted how easy the mills were to grip and twist.
• Durability and Grind Size Test: We tested each grind size setting to see how they performed and to determine whether each mill stayed true and durable during repeated use.

What We Learned

There Were Many Types of Pepper Mills

Our testing lineup represented three types of pepper mills: fill and twists, hand cranks, and electric. Fill and twist mills required two hands, one to keep the top steady and one to twist the body of the mill. The majority of the pepper mills we tested were this style, including some of our favorites: the Cole & Mason Derwent Pepper Grinder and Peugeot 23485 Paris u'Select 9-Inch Pepper Mill. We tested a singular hand crank mill—the PepperMate Traditional Pepper Mill—but were not impressed with the uncomfortable grip required. We also evaluated four electric mills, each with a single button to turn on the grinder. These often required batteries or came with a charging station. 

The Pepper Mills Had Varying Capacities (but It Didn’t Matter as Much as We Thought)

We initially thought that the highest capacity mills would be more desirable (more pepper, less refilling). Instead, we found we cared more about grip, ease of use, and clear grind size markings. While the OXO Good Grips Contoured Mess-Free Pepper Grinder held a whopping 66 grams of peppercorns, it performed poorly, grinding them too coarsely even on its finest setting. On the other hand, even though the Cole & Mason Hampstead Electric Pepper Grinder only held 22 grams of peppercorns, the machine had other capabilities we admired enough to make it worth the smaller capacity. Overall, our favorite mills ranged from 22 to 55 grams.

We Liked Mills That Were Easy to Load

We liked impressed mills that were easy to load, with wider openings and fewer impediments. For example, filling the Mannkitchen was easy, since it only had one crossbeam in the opening; most of the other mills we tested had around three to four beams, making it difficult to smoothly pour peppercorns inside without making a mess.

Grind Presets Were a Game Changer

Sometimes you just want a dash of fine pepper. Other times, a chunk of cracked pepper is a thing to behold (cue the steak au poivre). In either case, it’s helpful to have a pepper mill that offers a variety of grind settings. Some of the mills required us to manually adjust the grind size—usually by twisting a small knob at the top or a metal bar at the base of the mill—between coarse and fine. In the case of our favorite budget mill, the Kuhn Rikon Vase Grinder, this was easy. But when it came to using the very expensive Männkitchen Pepper Cannon (which sports 75 grind sizes) we felt a bit overwhelmed; there were no clear markers for grind size other than closely examining the space between the burrs at the bottom of the mill.

Instead of playing a guessing game, we liked mills with preset grind sizes that were clearly marked. The Peugeot stood out in this respect, with dashes ranging from I (finest) to IIIIII (coarsest), so we could easily adjust it.

Speed Was Important, But Not a Dealbreaker

A pepper mill that quickly and efficiently grinds pepper into consistent particles is a beautiful thing to behold. During our speed test, the Männkitchen blew other pepper mills out of the water: at medium coarseness, it ground 2.3 grams of pepper in a mere 18 seconds. For comparison, our favorite pepper mill from Peugeot took nearly double that time, with an average of 32 seconds. The Fletchers Mill Federal Pepper Mill, our previous pick, trailed at an average of 38 seconds.

All that said, while it's nice to grind pepper and quickly be done with it, the truth is, not many people (unless they really, really enjoy manually grinding pepper) are using their mills to manually grind whole teaspoons of the spice (a spice grinder is better suited to high volumes of grinding).

Comfort Was Key

After spending countless hours grinding pepper, we liked mills that weren’t, well, a grind to use! How a mill feels in the hand as you're cranking away is important. Uncomfortable mills strained our wrists and hurt our palms. In general, we liked longer mills with round orbs on the top, like on the Peugeuot, because there was more surface area and our hands didn't feel cramped. Our previous winner from Fletcher sported a flattened orb at the top and a short body, which bunched up our fingers and was difficult to grip comfortably. While the Männkitchen was compact and sported a matte finish that was pleasant to hold, we weren't huge fans of the indents in the top twisting part, which dug into our palms.

Electric Didn't Mean Easier 

We’ll be the first to admit we were surprised that the electric pepper mills were not necessarily quicker nor more comfortable to use than the manual options. Even the fastest electric mill, fromZwilling, was still far behind our manual picks. The Electric Salt and Pepper Grinder Mill dragged out this duty for an aching one minute and 37 seconds.

The Criteria: What to Look for in a Pepper Mill

Look for pepper mills that grind peppercorns quickly, are easy to grip, have clear, easy-to-adjust settings, and grind peppercorns consistently. It’s a bonus if the mills have preset settings, hold an impressive amount of peppercorns, and are attractive aesthetically (we love a little countertop eye candy!).

Our Favorite Pepper Mills

The Best Overall Pepper Mill

Peugeot Paris Pepper Mill

$48 $38 at Amazon $69 at Williams-Sonoma $62 at Walmart

What we liked: This mill was fairly fast when it came to grinding and sported simple, clear size settings: Just line up the white line on the base of the mill to one of the six different markers and get cracking. It was also comfortable to hold, thanks to the round wooden top and longer length.

What we didn’t like: It was in the middle of the pack capacity-wise, at 35 grams, which was small. After being filled, it took a while for the peppercorns to reach the grinding mechanism. This resulted in "grinding" air until the spice finally hit the bottom. While we loved that there were preset options for grind size, we do wish there was an option even coarser than the sixth setting; on the largest setting, the ground peppercorns were spliced to approximately an eighth of the original size. It could have been a bit speedier, too.

Key Specs

• Weight: 9.12 ounces
• Dimensions: 2.32 x 2.32 x 8.9 inches 
• Materials: Wood
• Capacity: 35 grams
• Grain size settings: 6 presets
  

Another Great Pepper Mill

Cole & Mason Derwent Pepper Grinder

$45 $40 at Amazon $49 $40 at Walmart $50 at Sur La Table

What we liked: This efficient mill was the third fastest, grinding a teaspoon of pepper on its finest setting in 45 seconds (and in only 36 rotations). It held an impressive 53 grams of peppercorns, too, meaning fewer refills were required (and part of the mill was see-through, making it easy to know when it was low). The Derwent also had six, easily-changed preset settings.

What we didn’t like: We had to grip it tightly while grinding since the stainless steel could be a bit slippery. As with most pepper mills, the mouth of the mill was rather narrow so loading peppercorns was a messy endeavor. This one was also on the pricey side.

Key Specs

• Weight: 10.56 ounces
• Dimensions: 2.36 x 2.36 x 7.52 inches
• Materials: Acrylic and stainless steel
• Capacity: 53 grams
• Grain size settings: 6 presets

The Best Budget Pepper Mill

Kuhn Rikon Mini Pepper Grinder

View on Amazon View on Kuhnrikonshop.com

What we liked: With most pepper mills, the plastic spindles within the narrow mouth of the vessel made refilling messy—peppercorns bounced everywhere. However, the Kuhn Rikon Vase Grinder didn't have a spindle and was easier to fill because of it. It also held a standard 53 grams of peppercorns, and we were able to swiftly grind up a teaspoon of pepper. The Kuhn Rikon was also easy to hold on to thanks to its flared base.  

What we didn’t like: If you’re looking for a classic-looking pepper mill, the Kuhn Rikon Vase Grinder isn't it. While the wide, flared, grooved base helped grip during grinding, it was rather bottom-heavy and inelegant.

Key Specs

• Weight: 1.6 ounces
• Dimensions: 3 x 3 x 6 inches
• Materials: BPA-free plastic and ceramic
• Capacity: 53 grams
• Grain size settings: Manual; no dials/markings to indicate grain sizes
  

The Best Electric Pepper Mill

Cole & Mason Hampstead Electric Pepper Grinder

$61 at Amazon $65 at Sur La Table $65 at Crate & Barrel

What we liked: It was super easy to operate this pepper mill. Simply adjust it to the desired grind size and press the button on the top. This was the second-fastest electric mill we tested. We also liked that it only required one hand to operate and that it was quiet.

What we didn’t like: The capacity was a mere 22 grams. While it was easy to operate, we had to press the button down rather firmly to get it to start, which proved uncomfortable after a while. It’s also the priciest of our winners.

Key Specs

• Weight: 14.56 ounces
• Dimensions: 1.73 x 1.73 x 8.46 inches
• Materials: Stainless steel
• Capacity: 22 grams
• Grain size settings: Manual; no dials/markings to indicate grain sizes

The Competition

• Fletchers' Mill Federal Pepper Mill: While this mill was our top pick in our previous testing, it was rather (dare we say) run-of-the-mill compared to some of the newer models. We disliked the flattened knob and compact body, which was uncomfortable to grip. The grind adjustments were also not marked clearly (which we preferred), and it was on the slower side.
• Männkitchen Pepper Cannon: This was an overall impressive pepper mill that ground smoothly and incredibly quickly on coarser settings. We also liked how easy it was to fill, with only one crossbeam in the wide opening. We do wish the grind settings were easier to understand; as it is, you spin the dial and aren't sure what you're landing on since, according to the brand, there are 75 grind sizes. Plus, the top knob sports grooves that were slightly uncomfortable to grip. But probably the biggest impediment to this mill being a winner is its astronomical price tag. That said, if you want to truly splurge and have been eyeing the pepper cannon, you'll likely be satisfied with it.
• OXO Good Grips Contoured Mess-Free Pepper Grinder: The low price point and high capacity–a huge 66 grams–impressed us initially, but we quickly discovered we got what we paid for: rough, coarse pepper grounds.
• Le Creuset Pepper Mill: This was the pretty cupcake of the group! We adored the candy-colored look of the Le Creuset Pepper Mill, but we did not love that changing the settings required a strong grip and nimble fingers. It was also rather slow.
• Fletchers' Mill Border Grill Pepper Mill: This mill had the smallest capacity—a teeny tiny 19 grams total—and the exterior was too slippery to get a good grip on while grinding.
• PepperMate Traditional Pepper Mill: This was an absolute beast when it came to grinding pepper—a teaspoon in 20 seconds, and with only 17 rotations!? But it was just so uncomfortable and rough on the hands that it was challenging to use for long periods.
• Trudeau Seville Pepper Mill, 6-Inch: Both uncomfortable to hold and the slowest in the group, the Trudeau Seville Pepper Mill simply was not up to snuff.
• ZWILLING Enfinigy Electric Salt/Pepper Mill: This mill looked so sleek, but it sounded like a warbly ghost while in use. It was also the quickest out of the electric pepper mills, but we wasted quite a bit of time trying to adjust the grind size settings.
• Electric Salt and Pepper Grinder Mill: This was another snail amongst rabbits, and it's electric, which made it even more disappointing.
• Cuisinart SG-3 Rechargeable Salt, Pepper and Spice Mill: The button placement for this electric mill—on the front, middle panel of the body—was excellent. But the overall machine was heavy, cumbersome, and too slow.
• Unicorn Magnum Pepper Mill: While this was the fastest pick from our previous testing, it is no longer available. 
• PepperMills Supreme Model 200: Per our last review, this mill was quite loud and not all that fast. 
• Peugeot Olivier Roellinger 5.25-inch Pepper Mill: This clumsy, impractical box-shaped grinder had some of the worst consistency and required far too many cranks. 
• Dreamfarm Ortwo: With particle inconsistencies across a variety of settings, this model was easily ruled out of contention. 
• Zassenhaus Speyer Dark Stained Beech Pepper Mill: This mill broke during testing, so it was out for the count.
• Cole & Mason Oxley One-Handed Pepper Grinder: It took forever to grind just one teaspoon of pepper with this mill, and it's currently unavailable on multiple retailers.
• Eparé Electric Pepper Grinder: This model did fine, but took about twice as long to grind pepper as our favorite one-handed model.
• Chef'n PepperBall: This model was entirely inefficient at grinding pepper.
• Kuhn Rikon Vase Grinder: Even though this mill’s cousin won our testing, this size was uncomfortable to hold and turn. 
• Kuhn Rikon Epicurean Ratchet Grinder: This mill required way too many cranks to achieve a mere teaspoon of pepper.
• Olde Thompson Bavaria Peppermill: This mill did a decent job, falling in the middle of the pack in most of our tests, but it was top-heavy. 
• Atlas Brass Pepper Mill: This mill was heavy, expensive, and didn't crack coarse pepper very well.
• William Bounds Spice Swinger Pepper Mill: This pepper mill did an extremely poor job at finely grinding pepper.
• William Bounds Comet Pepper Mill: This mill only had three settings, disqualifying it early on.
• Fletchers' Mill Border Grill Pepper Mill: We liked the look of this pepper mill, but it was slippery and performed just average.
• Unicorn Keytop Pepper Mill: This pepper mill was slow and not as capable, with coarse grinding. It's also currently unavailable.
• OXO Radial Pepper Mill: This pepper mill sent peppercorns all over the floor when dropped.
• Cole & Mason Capstans Pepper Mill: This mill took too long to grind pepper, and we found some cranks of this grinder didn't produce any ground pepper at all.
• Trudeau Professional Pepper Mill: We found this mill to be uncomfortable to hold and difficult to load.
  

FAQs

What is the difference between a pepper mill and a pepper grinder?

Pepper mills and pepper grinders are just two different ways to describe the same thing. (We prefer the term “pepper mill” for its elegance.)

How long do whole peppercorns keep? 

In order to make the most of the peppercorn’s flavor, we recommend using them within a year.

How long does freshly ground pepper keep?

Once pepper is freshly ground, the clock starts ticking. After approximately four months, freshly ground pepper usually begins to lose its flavor. Make sure to add the pepper to something tasty before then!

How do you clean a pepper mill?

Most pepper mills will not require any deep cleaning, especially if peppercorns are the only spice being used in them. The pepper mills we tested are not dishwasher-safe, and submersion is not recommended. Instead, spot-cleaning the exterior with a damp, wet cloth does job.

What is better: a pepper mill or a spice grinder?

It depends on how much pepper you need—if, for some ungodly reason, you need 1/2 cup of crushed black pepper, a spice grinder might be a better choice. But for a sprinkle here and there, a mill does a fine job (plus, you won't be left with a surplus of ground pepper that'll go stale over time).

Why We’re the Experts

• Abigail Clarkin is a contributing writer who has been writing for Serious Eats for over a year.
• She has written reviews on Anyday microwave cookware, faucet water filters, tea infusers, and personal blenders.
• Grace Kelly is a commerce editor for Serious Eats.
• She has been testing gear professionally for over two years.
• Prior to this, she worked as an intern at America's Test Kitchen, as an environmental journalist, and as a prep cook and bartender.
• For this review, we used each pepper mill to grind around one teaspoon of medium-grind pepper (around 2.3 grams), timing the process and noting how many turns it took. We repeated this three times and averaged the results. We also examined how easy the mills were to use and fill, and if their grind setting were simple to adjust and accurate.