Why It Works
- Refined coconut oil is odorless, flavorless, and solid at room temperature, with an extraordinary shelf life that makes it the perfect foundation for a shelf-stable mix.
- Malted milk powder helps the pancakes brown, even without butter.
- Low-density ingredients eliminate the need for physical aeration.
Around the world, you can find the most delicate French crepes to Japanese soufflé pancakes that are thicker than a biscuit. Even stateside, some prefer their pancakes light and thin, while others, the thicker and fluffier, the better.
These pillowy pancakes can be made from scratch, or from a homemade pancake mix that makes whipping up a batch the simplest of tasks.
Before milk and eggs are added to make pancake batter, the dry ingredients are whizzed in a food processor with refined coconut oil. This allows the oil to coat the flour, and slow hydration. Why is this important? Because it limits the mixing of glutenin and gliadin, which when combined, form gluten.
In pancakes, gluten forms strands that give the cake its structure. But too much gluten results in a pancake that is dense and gummy. The dry ingredients are rounded out with just a bit of sugar and malted milk powder, baking powder, salt, and baking soda. The baking soda helps the pancakes turn a beautiful golden brown, due to the Malliard reaction.
Add milk and an egg, and whisk until the batter is smooth, although you'll notice a few flecks of coconut oil here and there. These won't be a problem at all; like flakes of butter in a biscuit, they'll melt out as the pancakes cook, creating little pockets of empty space.
The batter may seem alarmingly thick, especially if you're used to a runnier style, but that's what keeps the pancakes thick in turn. If you prefer a thinner style, that's okay, too—just add a bit of extra milk. This will change the yield of the recipe and some other small details—namely the batter consistency and how much it spreads—but the process remains almost identical overall.
The thick batter can be portioned out in whatever size or shape you prefer, but with a 1/3-cup measure or a #12 scoop, it will make about eight large, ultra-thick pancakes.
Alternatively, the thick batter can be portioned out with a disposable pastry bag, a handy way to pipe out fun, kid-friendly shapes, like hearts and stars, or uniform rounds.
The time needed to griddle each pancake will vary depending on their size, as well as factors related to the size and heat of the griddle itself. But expect about 90 seconds per side for thick, 1/3-cup portions on a 350°F (177°C) griddle.
Truth be told, there's no better way to judge a pancake than with your eyes, so don't hesitate to peek under the hood from time to time to monitor its progress. Look for an even, golden brown color from edge to edge.
Don't forget that the griddle's heat may need to be adjusted along the way. The idea is to get the pancakes evenly browned on each side at a rate that allows the middle to cook through. If the pancakes scorch before they can cook through, the griddle is too hot. If the pancakes remain stubbornly pale, the griddle is too cool.
It takes practice to get the hang of it (especially when it comes to self-regulating the heat of a stovetop griddle), but it's the most delicious sort of practice in the world.
I like to make and serve pancakes right away, but if you need to hold some in advance, slide them onto a wire rack. This can be placed in a low oven (around 170°F) or, in some cases, the rack will be slim enough to slip under the griddle itself, where the radiant heat will keep the pancakes warm.
Serve with loads of good butter and maple syrup, then kick back and relax.
March 2019
Recipe Details
Thick and Fluffy Pancakes From Homemade Pancake Mix Recipe
Ingredients
For the Pancake Mix:
4 1/2 ounces all-purpose flour, such as Gold Medal blue label (about 1 cup, spooned; 125g)
1/2 ounce sugar (about 1 tablespoon; 15g)
1/2 ounce malted milk powder, such as Carnation or Hoosier Hill Farms (about 2 tablespoons; 15g)
1 1/2 teaspoons (6.8g) baking powder
1/2 teaspoon (2g) Diamond Crystal kosher salt; for table salt, use about half as much by volume or the same weight
1/4 teaspoon (1.6g) baking soda
2 1/2 ounces refined coconut oil, solid and firm, between 68°F and 72°F (about 1/3 cup; 70g), see note
For the Pancakes:
4 ounces milk, any percentage will do, or non-dairy alternatives (about 1/2 cup; 115g)
1 large egg, straight from the fridge (1 3/4 ounces; 50g)
1/4 ounce vanilla extract (about 1 1/2 teaspoons; 7g)
1 batch pancake mix, above (about 1 1/2 cups; 8 1/4 ounces; 233g)
Directions
For the Pancake Mix: In the bowl of a food processor, combine flour, sugar, malted milk powder, baking powder, salt, and baking soda. Process about 30 seconds to ensure the leavening agents are fully homogenized into flour.
Add solid coconut oil and pulse only until it disappears into a dry and powdery mix, just a few seconds. It's important that the coconut oil is fully combined into the flour, while also remaining powdery and dry, so use caution and avoid over-processing, especially with larger batches. At this point, you can either continue with the recipe or transfer the mix to an airtight container and store up to one year at or below 74°F (24°C), or until the date stamped on the package of coconut oil.
For the Pancakes: Preheat an electric griddle to 350°F (177°C), or heat a large, nonstick skillet to a similar temperature on the stovetop. In a large mixing bowl, whisk milk, egg, and vanilla extract until well combined. Add the prepared pancake mix, and whisk until relatively smooth, although a few flecks of coconut oil may dot the batter.
With a large scoop, measuring cup, or piping bag, divide batter in 1/3-cup portions (or as desired), and griddle until golden brown on either side, and cooked through the middle, about 90 seconds per side. Serve immediately, with butter, maple syrup, fresh fruit, whipped cream, or whatever other toppings sound fun.
Troubleshooting: The timing and yield of this recipe will vary substantially depending on how the pancake batter is portioned as well as the exact temperature of the griddle itself. When pancakes are excessively browned but raw in the middle, the griddle is likely too hot; when the pancakes are cooked through but too soft and pale, the griddle may be too cool.
Special Equipment
Food processor, electric griddle, 1/3-cup cookie scoop or other scoop for portioning (or a piping bag)
Notes
This mix can be prepared with an equal amount of cold, unsalted butter to replace the coconut oil; however, this will eliminate its make-ahead qualities, and the mix will need to be prepared and used right away.
Make-Ahead and Storage
In an airtight container, the pancake mix can be stored up to one year at or below 74°F (24°C), or until the date stamped on the package of coconut oil.
Read More
Nutrition Facts (per serving) | |
---|---|
167 | Calories |
10g | Fat |
16g | Carbs |
3g | Protein |
Nutrition Facts | |
---|---|
Servings: 8 | |
Amount per serving | |
Calories | 167 |
% Daily Value* | |
Total Fat 10g | 12% |
Saturated Fat 8g | 38% |
Cholesterol 24mg | 8% |
Sodium 247mg | 11% |
Total Carbohydrate 16g | 6% |
Dietary Fiber 1g | 2% |
Total Sugars 4g | |
Protein 3g | |
Vitamin C 0mg | 0% |
Calcium 76mg | 6% |
Iron 1mg | 5% |
Potassium 59mg | 1% |
*The % Daily Value (DV) tells you how much a nutrient in a food serving contributes to a daily diet. 2,000 calories a day is used for general nutrition advice. |