Two Delicious and Easy Soft-Shell Crab Sandwiches to Celebrate the Season

By
Daniel Gritzer
Daniel Gritzer
Editorial Director
Daniel joined the Serious Eats culinary team in 2014 and writes recipes, equipment reviews, articles on cooking techniques. Prior to that he was a food editor at Food & Wine magazine, and the staff writer for Time Out New York's restaurant and bars section.
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Updated August 10, 2018

Soft-shell crabs, an East Coast specialty, are officially in season, and here at Serious Eats Headquarters we couldn't wait to celebrate their arrival. Yesterday, I showed how easy it is to clean the crabs yourself. Today, I'm sharing two great ways to use those freshly cleaned crabs with these easy and delicious sandwich recipes.

I think sandwiches are one of the best ways to enjoy soft-shells. First, because the crabs aren't exactly cheap, a sandwich is a great way to extend them into a full, satisfying meal. Plus, because crisp-cooked soft-shell crabs are bursting with tangy juices, surrounding them with bread means more of their amazing flavor makes it into your mouth instead of getting lost in a puddle on the plate.

For these recipes, I went in two very different directions. For my first sandwich, I started with the idea of a classic Maryland-style soft-shell crab sandwich, which often comes on white bread with mayo, sliced tomato, and lettuce. Instead of basic sliced white sandwich bread, I bought a small boule and cut the slices myself.

Then, to add a little more flavor, I prepared a simple tomato salsa using seeded canned plum tomatoes that I had gently baked in a 300°F oven to dry them slightly and concentrate their flavor. Once they'd cooled a little, I minced them and blended them with olive oil, red wine vinegar, finely sliced basil, and just a bit of sugar to balance the tartness of the vinegar and tomato.

For the other sandwich, I wanted to go in more of an Asian direction. My initial plan was to borrow some of the flavors from hard-shell crabs sautéed with ginger and scallions, a dish I've seen on menus at Cantonese restaurants. But I also wanted to top the sandwich with cilantro and quick-pickled carrots and cucumbers, garnishes that seem to pop up on all sorts of Asian sandwiches, from banh mi to bao. At the store, a mysterious magnetic force pulled me toward the baguettes, and I realized my subconscious was steering me into banh mi territory. Instead of resisting, I decided to embrace it. Who wouldn't want a soft-shell crab banh mi? (As it turns out, my colleagues at Serious Eats once wanted one so badly, they created a hack.) Once I accepted the idea—and felt damned good about it—I knew I had to make a chili mayo. I reworked the ginger and scallion idea by adding grated ginger to the chili mayo and thinly sliced raw scallions as a garnish.

The other main difference between these two sandwiches is the way I cooked the crabs themselves. I briefly considered deep-frying them, but decided against it: As delicious as deep-fried soft-shells are, they're also a bit more trouble to make, and I wanted to keep these sandwiches as quick and easy as possible. That meant sautéing them in a skillet.

For the Maryland-style sandwich, I dredged the crabs in flour that I had seasoned with Old Bay, then sautéed them in butter until golden brown and crisp. For the banh mi-style sandwiches, I went for a plain cornstarch dredge and cooked them in neutral oil. The flour dredge gives the crabs more of a crunchy coating with a delicious, brown-butter flavor, while the cornstarch forms a lighter, crisper shell that shatters when you bite it. I wouldn't say one is better than the other—the textures and flavors are just different. If you need an excuse to cook a whole lot of soft-shells this summer, trying both types of dredging and cooking fats is more than a good enough reason.

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