Why a Carbon Steel Pan Is One of the Most Versatile Pieces of Cookware

Chef. Burnt. Ratatouille. The Bear. Whenever I watch TV shows and movies about the world of the professional chef, I look at the pans to see which ones the set dresser included. Why? It lets me know if the production consulted a true, working kitchen. While you might think that the top restaurants in the world are all cooking with heritage copper cookware or some other lofty, fancy skillets, the truth is, the humble carbon steel skillet is a line cook’s workhorse. If you go to a restaurant and look closely, you’re likely to see a stack of them off to the side of the range. This pan is the only pan, meaning that, unlike many home kitchens, you won’t find them next to stainless steel, cast iron, and ceramic-coated nonstick pans; carbon steel takes the place of them all.

And, on a personal level, there was a time in my life when more of my day was spent holding the handle of a carbon steel pan than wasn’t (except for, maybe, the handle of my knife). While today I’m much more likely to pull out my carbon steel skillet to cook a handful of broccoli rather than to sear a lobe of foie gras, it's still the pan I turn to time and time again. 

What Is a Carbon Steel Pan?

Not to be confused with a cast iron pan, a carbon steel pan is made from a thin stamped sheet of solid iron with a touch of carbon. Like their cast iron cousins, carbon steel pans have to be seasoned before they’re ready to use. The process is simple and doesn’t take long, maybe a single afternoon—and some open windows! That said, you can always go for a pre-seasoned version if the process intimidates you.

What’s So Great About Cooking with Carbon Steel?

In a restaurant setting, things like ergonomics and aesthetics are of little importance (for the most part). A line cook needs a pan that gets hot FAST, like, five seconds ago fast. The pan should respond quickly to temperature changes and be lightweight enough not to cause wrist pain from repeated flipping and sautéing. Most professional kitchens also have to mind the bottom line, so the pan also has to be cheap and long-lasting. Hence the reliance on the ever-true, durable, carbon steel skillet.

These pans feature a flat bottom with wide, sloping sides, usually about two inches high. The long angled handle makes it easy to grab it out of a hot oven or off of a charcoal grill (it’s durable enough to withstand long periods of time on either). Outside the restaurant world, these qualities make carbon steel pans the perfect choice for searing or sautéing meat, fish, or vegetables. They can even be used to make omelets or delicate crepes, with a little finesse. The only thing they can’t do is simmer acidic sauces high in acid like tomato sauce or white wine pan sauce (it tends to eat away at the seasoning). Save those recipes for your stainless steel rondeau or braiser. For anything else, the trusty carbon steel will be the pan to pick.

What’s the Best Carbon Steel Pan?

Mauviel M'Steel Black Carbon Natural Nonstick Frying Pan With Iron Handle

$95 at Amazon View on Mauviel-usa.com

To buy: $75 on amazon.com (9.5-inch); $95 on mauviel-usa.com (11-inch)

When I tested carbon steel skillets, the Mauviel M’Steel carbon steel pan did the best in every round of testing. Once the pan was properly seasoned, it seared chicken breasts and broccoli to perfect golden-brown perfection and also made a beautiful, caramelized onion tarte tatin that didn’t stick when I  flipped it out. The wide-open sides also made it easy to flip crepes or toss chopped vegetables.

The Mauviel is on the heavier (and more expensive) side, so if you want something a little more trim, go for the Vollrath Carbon Steel Fry Pan. It did just as well in most instances and is the go-to choice for many chefs and restaurant kitchens.

Good to Know

• Weight: 3 pounds, 3 ounces
• Cooking surface diameter: 8 1/2 inches
• Pre-seasoned: No
• Max oven-safe temp: 680ºF
• Care: Hand-wash
• Induction compatible: Yes

FAQs

How do you season carbon steel skillets?

Seasoning a carbon steel pan shouldn’t grip you with fear. It’s a simple process that we have detailed in-depth instructions on to guide you. Just open your windows and get that thing heated!

What is the best carbon steel skillet?

The best carbon steel skillet is going to change based on your personal cooking habits and abilities. If you’re looking for a good all-around option that isn’t too pricey, go with the Vollrath (an industry favorite).

What size carbon steel skillet should I get?

What I found during our carbon steel pan test is that the ideal specimen is under three pounds, three ounces in weight, and 10 to 12 inches in diameter.

How do you clean a carbon steel skillet?

Typically, a carbon steel pan only needs to be wiped with a dry paper towel and maybe a quick shower of water. Never put it in the dishwasher and only use stainless steel wool if you must to remove tough stuck-on food.